26/11/12

We had a great night's sleep - our last one in a bed for 3 nights - got up, packed up and went for breakfast. It was then into the minivan with our duffel bags and our guide for the Inca Trail - David. 45minutes later we arrived at the start of the Inca Trail. We collected our hired stuff (Just walking sticks for me), had a last wee stop and collected our snacks before walking down to the first check point at KM82. We also had a group photo taken at the Inca Trail start point and got our passports stamped.

We crossed the Riobamba and climbed uphill steadily past the first Inca site of Llactapta. It was a really hot day so it was tough climbing both up, due to altitude and down, due to the steepness of the steps - I was pleased to have my sticks. We walked for 3 hours before stopping for lunch beside a fast running stream. It was amazing that our porters had passed us on the trail and got here in time to set up the meal tent and start cooking!! We rested and enjoyed a lovely lunch of soup followed by rice, veg and fish - again amazing that they can cook this.

After a 30 minute siesta we set off again firstly up a real steep path for about an hour before another short rest and the last 20 minutes to our camp site. When we got there all our tents had been set up by the porters as well as the meal tent. They do such a great job! Our camp site is right next to some Inca ruins making for great views. The whole day trekking through the mountains has been hard work but so rewarding with the mazing views. After a lovely 'English' tea time and snacks we went for a wander at the ruins feeling so lucky and proud to be where we are. It's awesome to think that you can only get to this spot by walking.

It started to rain so we headed back to the tent to rest before dinner. The hamlet of Wayllabamba is where we are camping tonight a mere 3100 meters above sea level. After relaxing for an hour we had a delicious dinner and chat with David about our day tomorrow. By all accounts tomorrow sounds like the hardest day so we are all tucked up in bed for an early night.

27/11/12

A good night's sleep was had by Neil and I despite the hard floor. We were woken up at 5am by the porters with a cup of coca leaf tea, eating breakfast of quinoa porridge, pancakes and bread at 5.30am and off walking by 6.20am.

It was a fairly steady uphill walk to start with but it soon got steep. It was a really really hard climb for 5 12 hours as Neil and I finally got to the highest Pass at midday - Warmiwanusca pass (also known as dead woman's pass) which is 4198m above sea level. We had climbed over 1000 meters and it was really really tough! I must have said to Neil at least 50 times that I couldn't do it, it was too hard and that I couldn't breathe! It was nicer walking through the cloud forest as it protected us from the scorching sun but it was still hard. Basically it was the hardest physical and mental thing I have ever done. At one point I had a right paddy getting angry with myself and telling myself just to get on with it.

Despite the awful hard work of the climb we also saw some amazing views - more so because it was such a slow ascent! After I gave myself a talking to I seemed to pick up the pace a little bit even though the last 100 meters were the steepest of the lot. It was also nice to get a clap and a cheer from the rest of the group as we got to the top. It was also a cause for celebration as Gaz had proposed to Nikki when they had gotten to the top - happy days! Thanks to my amazingly supportive and understanding husband I felt a huge sense of achievement when we reached the top - so happy we had done it together even though Neil could have climbed it alone in half the time!

After a few photos we started the climb down to the camp site. This was 600 meters down uneven and wobbly steps which was also difficult - not so bad on the lungs but it hurts the joints more - again I was pleased I had my sticks. It was a fairly steady walk down and we got to our camp of Paq'aymayo (3600m) at approx. 1.45pm - good timing we were told by our guide David.

It was so nice to sit down, unload our packs and take our socks and shoes off before a delicious lunch of chicken and rice after quinoa soup and we also got some well-deserved pudding of apple pie! We took our hot drinks back to our tent and after a lovely foot rub by my wonderful hubby I had an hours sleep before tea time. We had a lovely hot drink and were introduced to the chef, head porter, and other porters. It's amazing the job that the porters do carrying 25k each and scaling the rail in a third of the time we do - they deserve a medal! We also learnt some more about our guide David, guiding and portering in general before coming back to the tent to relax some more.

It's cold up here due to the higher altitude so we are wrapped up fairly warm in our fleeces. We went out to the dining tent for a delicious meal - soup followed by chicken and rice. We a;; enjoyed a chat about travelling and different countries before returning to our tents for an early night. Today has been the toughest day but tomorrow will be the longest.

28/11/12

I had a terrible night's sleep waking up in the night shivering even though I was burning up. My nose was blocked and I had a really sore throat - all this along with the early morning didn't help - I felt rough! We had some breakfast and set off for a 9 hour day of walking. It was a rather steep climb to start off with past 2 beautiful lagoons and some Inca ruins. It was a cloudy day which was a shame in one way but was great to ensure no sunburn.

After walking up stairs for about 2 12 hours we finally got to the second highest pass of the trek at 3950 meters. After a short break - I was really feeling rough with a full on head cold and my lungs hurt too - we started to walk through the lush high jungle. It was so pretty and just a shame it was so cloudy so we couldn't see the views. Walking through the cloud forest was a nice walk with fairly gradual inclines up and down, and we walked through and old Inca tunnel too. I was pleasantly surprised when we got to the third highest pass for lunch after a rather heavy rain shower, so I was glad to relax.

We ate inside the tent at 3700 meters. It was really cold and windy, and I was rapidly feeling worse and worse. I hardly remember what we were served for lunch as I felt so sick. I ate my vegetable soup but lucky Neil got my main course as well as his own. After lunch we walked down some steep Inca ruins but feeling so ill I didn't listen to David's talk, and instead chose to rest.

The rest of the day went by in a blur to me but I remember seeing some Inca terraces and walking down some steep steps until we finally made it to the camp site. By now it was 4pm - wed been walking since 6am!! We had another longish climb down to our tent but after tea time we settled in well for a rest. Every muscle in my body was aching so much - I felt so ill! Dinner was at 6.30pm and we gave our tips to the fab porters learning a little more about them. I hardly ate a thing still feeling too sick, and we were in bed by 8pm ready for the excitement of tomorrow and Macchu Picchu!

29/11/12

After another sleepless night we were woken up at 3.30am for a wash and quick breakfast before going to queue at the final check point and entrance to the path leading to the sun gate and ultimately Macchu Picchu! We sat here for an hour and a half until they opened up the gates. As soon as we were through the whole group got a pace on keen to get to Intipunku - The sun gate - as quickly as possible. I kept up the pace for 30 or 40 minutes as the path was pretty flat but as soon as it started getting steeper both up and down I started to struggle. My chest was so heavy and I felt so poorly. I plodded along as best I could but was quickly working up a sweat even though the sun wasn't even out yet.

The toughest part of the 1 hour 20 minute walk was a very steep Inca staircase upwards - it was practically a ladder - quite scary! Once at the sun gate we were really disappointed as the whole site was completely covered in fog, mist and cloud! Such an anti-climax. We were all chuffed when the cloud started to clear. After walking down towards Macchu Picchu for a while the cloud had almost completely cleared as we got to the Mirador point. This is where the famous post card shot is taken from so we spent some time taking pictures and marvelling at the sight before us. We were all so proud of ourselves for walking the 4 day Inca trail to get here.

It was then for the final decent - I was so proud of myself and Neil as we got to the bottom to meet our guide Eli and Thomas (one of our tour members who had done a different trek to get here). We had 20 minutes to relax before our tour by our guide David. Eli had kindly gotten some Champagne to toast Gaz and Nikki on their engagement and to celebrate us all finishing our treks. Our 2 hour tour was awesome even though I was exhausted and finding it hard to concentrate I still really enjoyed it. David took us around the Temple of the Condor, the agricultural terraces, the Temple of the Sun and Royal Tombs, the Temple of the Three Windows and the Central Plaza. It was a really informative and interesting tour. It's amazing that these ruins were hidden for so long because they are so big. It was an amazing sight and a special experience to be there with Neil.

As I was still feeling rough both with a cold and sore muscles we spent some time relaxing and taking in the view before getting the winding bus down to Aguas Caliente. We snaked down a long way and it made my ears pop! Once in town we had a little mooch around before meeting the others for lunch. I finally had my appetite back so enjoyed a big feed before catching the train.

This blog can never really reflect the hard work, determination, tears, and smiles that went into this trek for Neil and I. I am unbelievably proud of myself for doing it, but also so happy to have had such a supportive, understanding, patient and amazing husband to complete this with. Without him I would never have gotten to Macchu Picchu. He walked slowly with me, slightly blighting his own experience to ensure that I got there too. He is an amazing man, and I love him so much!

xxxx