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As the snow fell lightly over our heads, we descended into Phortse Tenga, the town where we had to decide whether to go up to Dole or down to Namche.
Both of us were exhausted after going hard for the last week, hiking over six hours every day and we decided to take a break. Plus with the weather forecasting snow up at Gokyo, we will keep it on our bucket list for another time.
This meant we had to continue on to Namche, which was cumulatively down 400 meters, we had to walk UP for two hours to get there, and according to our guide book, had 4-5 hours from our lunch spot at Phortse Tenga. Better get moving. Waxing and waning with energy we trudged along up and down, stopping for water only intermittently. We were worried we wouldn't arrive before dark.
The highlight of the trip aside from the bet I won (see below) was seeing the timid red haired mountain goats. They were so cute and precariously perched on the mountain side! See photo.
When we reached a familiar spot we had passed a week ago leaving Namche we new we had about an hour to an hour and a half to go. There was a fine looking tea house and it was raining. I was going especially slow up these steps and Damo insisted we throw in the towel and stay there for the night. He said "I don't think you have it in you to continue". He should know better than to say that. I adamantly refused his request despite his insistence and took off at a rapid pace toward Namche. He could barely keep up! As you begin rounding the bends into Namche there are a series of stupas (Buddhist monuments). As we passed the first I said, "only ten minutes to the next stupa", which was way off in the distance and uphill. He said "no way, at least twenty". I then took off running, passing a large group of German tourists with their Sherpas and porters, prompting them to ask Damian what was wrong with me, to which he replied "I don't know, she's crazy". Well the Linebarger stubbornness held out and exactly ten minutes later I collapsed at the stupa, panting and lobster faced. I WON! Although we put nothing on the bet, winning was satisfying enough!
We celebrated in Namche with a beer and popcorn, and staying up till 9pm. Tomorrow we decided to rest and then undertake a gruelling 8-9 hour hike back to Lukla in order to fly out the day after. Our plans remain up in the air until we can get to a real computer and make some plans for our next move. We think it will involve more trekking. It's addictive!
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Mom This is such textbook "Annie" behavior. I just don't know where you get that "winning at all cost" gene. Oh, never mind, he's sitting right beside me.