Monday 16 October 2017

Florence

We disembarked from the ship early on Saturday morning, without incident. We placed our large bag outside our stateroom the night before, tagged, as instructed. Such efficiency as our bag was waiting in the "arrival" terminal when we disembarked and we were out of the terminal in less than five minutes!

The taxis were lined up like "yellow bees" but allocated to you in civilised manner by a transport officio. Up front our driver told us the cost to Hotel Amalia would be €25 however since it was only 8.30am and we couldn't checkin or gain access to our room, Dimitri offered to drive us up the coast to Temple of Poseidon (see pic) at Cape Sounio overlooking the Adriatic Sea which was not part of any tour available from the ship.

It dates back to 6th Century BC and was destroyed by the Persians and never completely rebuilt.

The cost would be €120 for three hours, thereabouts, return trip, which sounded reasonable.

We had a lovely driver, Dimitri, middle-age (late 50's) gentle Greek, never married, lived all his life in Athens, owns his taxi! (Such information!), working on the basis, "ask questions, gain knowledge"!

Dimitri's suggestion didn't disappoint, it was a lovely drive in his Mercedes taxi, bought in 2004. The Greek Government offered €25000 tax free to taxi owners to update/increase the fleet of taxis ready for Olympics. Dimitri teamed with other owners and bought 20 as a group, saving €30,000. He is still driving the same Mercedes, thirteen years later!

At the top of the Cape sits the remnants of the temple, well worth the climb up to be in such close proximity to such an ancient structure. Whilst you couldn't get to touch the marble as it was cordoned off about metre or so all round, it was close enough to see evidence of markings. Sitting right on the headlands truly spectacular.

There were bathroom facilities and a restaurant at the base so we "shouted" Dimitri a Greek coffee before the drive back to our hotel. We arrived about 1pm and our room was ready.

The room did not disappoint. The hotel was recommended by Goulburn friends (Helen/Fred Rainger who had stayed there several months prior). Our room had a wonderful view of the Acropolis, stunning at night (see pic).

We had an early 3am departure the next morning to catch 6am flight out of Athens. The hotel provided very adequate "continental" breakfast in their coffee area in the foyer and the pre-booked driver arrived 2:55am. Lovely Greek young man, about mid-20's, who was delighted to find out, during conversation, that we were from Australia. His brother, lives with his young family, in Adelaide and he plans to visit next year. His brother sings the praises of Australia, especially the education system for his young children! Very nice to know.

On arrival at the departure terminal it was just before 4am, bodies were sleeping against walls on vacant floor space, some were standing wearily in the queue, like us, waiting for Alitalia to open there checkin stations. All went well, we left Athens on time for the 1hr.20min flight to Rome.

Rome: 15 October 2017

Our pre-arranged driver met us at the airport (as before), making the transfer from the airport to our Madison Hotel a stress free one.

We arrived just before 9am, and collected our "stored luggage" from the hotel, several doors away. I was very relieved to see both bags and coat were intact and the trust was not misplaced!

This was only an overnight stay in Rome before catching very fast train to Florence for two nights. Our train would depart 12:20 the next morning. We spent the morning hours leisurely sitting at a Trattoria, nearby, sipping coffee and ordering an early lunch before collecting our bags from the hotel for the less than 100metre walk to the Roma Termini (brother in-law Michael will be pleased to know that never was there or will be a mix up in departing stations, like our last catastrophe. At time of booking all trains I double-checked the departing stations!)

Monday 16 October

Florence

It was a short taxi ride to our Hotel Arizona, where we had previously stayed. The owner greeted us like "lost brothers", (must have check his data base). We were allocated a lovely, old but quaint and adequate room, above the front of the hotel and overlooking the restaurant opposite.

On our last trip and stay, this restaurant opposite was a "vegetarian" restaurant and although we did have a lunch there, we didn't dine (one must have meat!). Well, now the Hotel Arizona own this restaurant, purchasing it in October last year, now it is a 'full' restaurant and we dined there our first evening. It did not disappoint and hotel guests received 10% discount which enhanced the flavour!

Tuesday 17 October

We explored again wonderful Florence, it is a beautiful city, quite "softer" than the noise and bustle of Rome. We revisited the quaint shopping area, loving the cobbled narrow streets, the shops that look for all-like a house but aren't. The quaintness of Italy where pharmacies do not sell tissues (only supermarkets!), where every alcoholic drink is served with small mezzo of eats, Australia should take note and adopt this culture! The food is excellent, so simple such flavour. Oh the tomatoes are to die for, the taste I remember as a child, when the look matches the taste!

Tonight we would dine in the "old city", other side of the Arno River. We dined in the restaurant district where many trattorie are situated and we had dined on previous trips. We had dinner earlyish as we were off to the Opera, "Carmen". This opera presentation was held in the church St.Marco (the Church of England run church catering to Florentines of Anglican faith and travellers of course), situated in the old district. Again, we attended a concert in the same place on our trip with Michael (my brother-in-law). Two hours of wonderful music. We had booked our tickets and had fantastic seats allocated. It was a delightful evening, another memory.

The next morning we would be catching a local train to Chiusi and onto Panicale. I will sleep well in dreams of Panicale.

Wed 18 October 2017

Panicale, Umbria

The local train wasn't an "all-stations", only some, so the trip only took 1.5hours. However the station at Chiusi is undergoing "tunnel" repairs. This is the tunnel from platform, across tracks to town side of the station, including the one elevator which was not in use.

Thank goodness for a kind gentleman who offered to take both large suitcases down, across and up stairs. Shifting between mine and Phillip's, and saving us the back-breaking tasks.

They were laying new tiles on the corridor in the tunnel, so manoeuvring along the tunnel was to be undertaken with much trepidation if one was to avoid the ire of the tilers!! We managed it!

It was well worth the €10 gratitude given to the much appreciative "stranger". We are hoping the work is finished when we return to Chiusi station in a month's time, or at least another "strange" is on hand!

The Avis office was only a short walk from the station so we managed that with ease. We were very surprised when after completing all the necessary paperwork, the official walked us to our awaiting vehicle. A Fiat, yes, but not the expected Fiat 500, tiny little, gorgeous Fiat we had on our previous trip but a "bus", side, slide-opening door, seating five, complete with luggage compartment up back! Fiat Qubo…..I thought it might be challenging on the drive up the local road to Panicale, but no, I managed it safely.

We arrived, knew exactly where to park, and had time to spare before our arranged meeting with Katia (villa Manager) so we headed to our dear friend Aldo, and Aldo's Bar in the piazza…we were home (well very comfortable, no Olly so it's not home, no Cathedral so it's not home), but you get the drift!!

Aldo welcomed us, genuinely remembered us I'm sure and we him, of course. We ordered our first (but not last) spritz (Champagne mixed with Aperol), Aldo makes a great one! Of course it is served with "something", today lightly toasted Italian bread, sprinkled with olive oil, wonderful. Everyday, you are served something different, but always food accompanies drinks!

Meeting Katia was equally delightful. Hugs and kisses (both cheeks of course) all round. She hasn't changed, her children three years older now 6 & 7 but she is as bubbly and enchanting as we remembered her to be.

After the formalities completed, she showed us over the villa although not much had changed. We noted new covers on the lounge, and beautiful new chase, still wonderful herbs growing in the garden. Little "welcoming" pots of pansies, called "juliettes" in Italian, sat at the front door and by next morning, two additional pots of cyclamen delivered by Katia, obviously!

Parking restrictions were now in place, directly outside our villa. Last trip one could park along this one-way street, at will. Now, 1hr restriction between 8am-8pm, requiring stayers like us, to park several hundred metres further from the piazza itself. Reasonable I guess so "locals" can drop in to Aldo's for "conversation" and coffee or shop for daily produce at the green grocery, bakery, pharmacy, grocery or butcher's within Panicale walls. Still, it's a change and must be indicative of "tourists", in summer!