Arrived back in Istanbul after a 11 ½ hour (2200-0930) coach ride from Selcuk. We had the worst possible seats right in front of the steward's area, main coach door and opposite the toilet so consequently we had a great night of uninterrupted sleep. But hey, we were on a modern VIP bus, no kidding!!! At approx 0100 Maria took her life in her hands by using the extremely cramped, smelly and 'dangerous' toilet to answer a call of nature; the bus pulled into services 2 minutes later for a toilet stop. We were a little jaded today which is perhaps why we estimated the weight of our laundry to be about 2kg, so at a charge of 10TL (£5) per kilo we went ahead to get our gear nice and clean. We were somewhat mortified, therefore, when the bill came back for 7kg - £35 has be the most expensive laundry bill ever for a few pairs of socks and boxer shorts.