We headed to the coast on the recommendation of a couple we had met in Wayanad and we weren't disappointed. Thottada beach where we stayed was pretty enough, very quiet and a lovely spot to watch the sunset but just a 15 minute walk along the road brought us to empty white sands and palm trees which we were able to stroll along, a really beautiful beach that we fear won't stay so untouched for long.

We stayed in a homestay where we were fed royally with delicious local food. The owner, Kurien was able to arrange for us to visit a local theyyam ritual which go on throughout the night in different villages around north kerala, we along with 3 other guests visited one at 10pm and left at 3.30am and it really was a great experience.

It's hard to describe the rituals but I'll have a go and failing that I'll try to upload some video. Basically there's lots of drumming and then a performer will dance around the temples, these performers are embodiments of Gods and only members from certain families have been performing for 1000s of years. The performers are really intense and there are occasions of them lying in burning coals etc not that we saw anything that dramatic however it's a really powerful performance and quite hypnotic with the steady beating of the drums. There was then a later stick beating performance which was a little like Morris dancing on acid which you had to keep on your toes in case a God started waving his stick at you. Despite all that the strongest memory we will take is the hospitality, the people in the village were so welcoming, they were interested in us and informative about the rituals as well as providing us with food and chai.

We may have given off some negative vibes about India and there are aspects that are very tiring but the warmth of the people is truly humbling.