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Hello all!
Glad to hear the party went well and everything else is good back in blighty! Still loving the messages
So, we got the night bus from Nazca at 11pm and I bumped into Sian, who I´d met in Hucachina, at the bus station. The bus journey was the best! We didnt pay the extra couple of quid for first class, but we both still managed to sleep for most of the 10 hour journey as the chairs recline and you have leg rests that allow you to almost lie down.
Arriving in Arequipa at about 9am, Sian didn´t have a hostel booked so she got a taxi with us to our hostel. It is a really nice hostel, but about 5min walk from centre of the town and in a residential area. We had dorm beds, but they have curtains around each bed which gave a nice bit of privacy and peace. We checked in, then set off exploring Arequipa. There is a row of travel agents selling trips, so we visited them all and got the Colca Canyon trek for about 30quid cheaper than the hostel was offering! We grabbed some lunch which was nice, although half the time you order without really knowing what you are ordering! Haha. We walked around and was debating visiting the museum and cathedral and monastery, but you have to pay so we decided against. However, we bumped into another British girl who was debating the same and so she come with us and we tried the local speciality cheese ice cream. We sat in a pretty little square and the other 3 had Pisco Sours, which is a local drink. We then went on a free walking tour which started at 3. We expected it to be a bit shabby, but it was brilliant! We learnt all about the history of Arequipa and visited the church, museum, monastery, an alpaca/llama wool workshop, etc. The guide was very knowledgable and we learnt about the surrounding volcanoes, local people, food, etc. It lasted about 3 hours. We stopped for pizza and Harriet had chips, as a treat and to give us energy for tomorrows Colca Canyon trek! It is disputedly the deepest canyon in the world, twice as deep as the grand canyon with a depth of over 4km.
Sunday: Got picked up at 3am! We left our big rucksacks at the hostel and just took essentials. It was a 3 hour drive to Chivay, a village where we stopped and had breakfast. Then we drove on the Condor Cross where you can see the Andean condors. This was one of the reasons we had to leave so early, because it is the best time to see them. They are huge and have a wingspan of up to 10.5ft. We were lucky to see about 20 of them circling the canyon. We hoped back on the bus and got dropped at a random layby at the top of the canyon. Harriet and a German couple were doing the 3 day, 2 night hike, which is a more relaxed tour, where they hike for about 3 hours a day and take an easier route down the canyon. Me, Sian and 5 others were doing the 2 day, 1 night trek. So we bid farewell to Harriet and wished her luck as she went off one way, nicely equipped with her walking sticks!
We trekked down the canyon for about 4-5 hours. It was boiling hot and the terrain was very rocky, but it was a beautiful hike. There was a bit of drama as we had an older American woman in our group (early 50´s?) and she was a wimp! She was relatively slow and struggled a bit, so we had to keep waiting for her. Then she forgot (?) to drink and so felt ill and dizzy and then she reckoned the guide had told her we was all mad at her and that she was selfish, etc. So she got all emotional and over-dramatic. Haha! Once we got to the bottom we stopped in a tiny traditional village and had lunch- omelette and rice for me. Then it was another 4 hour hike through the canyon to our camp. The path was very up and down and we crossed the river Colca a couple of times, it was nice to bathe our feet in the cold water! The guide explained about the plants and wildlife. We arrived in our camp about 5pm. There was a little pool, which I paddled in and Sian swam in. The views up the canyon were amazing and me and Sian decided we´d like to live there for a while as it was so peaceful. We had dinner and then weren´t late to bed; I was sharing a hut with Sian and the American. I have never seen such a beautiful sky! There is no light pollution and the sky was clear, so we saw a sky full of stars! I never realised there was so many! You could even see the other galaxies glow. There were so many surreal and breath-taking moments- that is what it is all about!
Monday: We had to get up at 4.30am, as we left camp at 5am when it was still dark to avoid the worst of the heat and make it to the top in good time. I found it considerably easier walking up, surprisingly. There was less pressure on the joints and I guess my cardio level is quite good, so me and a Belgian couple led the field. It took about 3 hours to reach the top, so we were there just after 8am. The American was on a mission to prove a point after the guide said she should take a mule up, so she done a lot better! We had another short hike to a local village where breakfast was served. I was one of the only ones not to get blisters; thank you Vicky´s walking shoes! However, my legs have never ached so much! From the village we got a minibus to the highest point in the valley and then through a national park to see wild alpacas and llamas. We stopped at some hot springs and all went for a swim, which was lovely on the aching muscles and very relaxing. Then we stopped in Chivay for lunch. We ended up in a 'resturant' which was just a couple of chairs and tables in someones front room.
Arrived back in Arequipa about 5pm. Me and Sian come back to hostel and they had no dorms so we got a private room for not much more. Had much needed showers and spent the evening having a trivial pursuit championship!!!! I was in heaven! It was the American Genius edition, but it was good fun and I won 2-1! Pics of Colca Canyon are on Facebook!!
Tuesday:
Woke up and had banana pancakes: a nice free brekkie compared to the usual bread and jam! I don´t know what the plan is for today yet. Harriet is due back tonight at about 5, I think it is lucky she didn´t do our trek as I think she would of struggled, but I´m interested to see what her trip was like. I am still debating climbing Misti tomorrow, but Sian suffered during Colca and has the most horrendous blisters so she´s out, Harriet was definitely not interested and I don´t fancy doing it alone. Plus, it costs a lot of money and I am weary of the altitude sickness and still aching a little. Plus, it means staying here for a couple more days. I will try and speak to a few people and see if anyone is up for it. I was looking at booking the Inca Trail for January, as permits are already selling out. However, they need your passport number and are very strict about it. I panicked and emailed a few companies about my situation. Most said they couldn´t take the booking but two have said they can change my passport number if I let them know the new one asap. However, I need to check with Harriet if she thinks she can manage the hike, as it is a lot of money.
Take care guys!
- comments
Mum Wow it sounds absolutely amazing and great you didn't get blisters and even better that you won the trivial pursuit championship!! That's my girl! Let us know how Harriet's trip went, hopefully her legs wont be as achey as yours. If it proves possible it would be good to do the Inca trail but I am sure there are going to be lots of other amazing things along the way that are possible. Your blog makes me feel as tho I am there! Alas I am here.... although there is a very clean, shiny little red car sitting outside my front room window so it's not all bad! Great party and nice to catch up with some of the family and as Auntic Vic was wearing your clothes your presence was felt! ha ha! Did that make you laugh? Keep savouring every moment! Love to you and Harriet. Love you lots xx
Auntie vic Yay no blisters. Well done you on your massive trek. I fear I wouldn't cope well with it as I still can't move following my show off dancing sat night. I would love to have seen that starry sky I bet it was amazing. Pics are great you look really well. News from home..... Luke's day 2 week 3 "bit dry" but he's good. I'm back had to stop mid blog to drop Ian and his bro at the greyhound so that won't be "a bit dry" as papas scored them a couple of tickets to the footie tonight. Jakes good and monts having his tea. I've been working hard got Thursday off this week so that'll include washing ironing and a trip to b&ms. Ha ha ha glad you haven't lost your patience I can just imagine the yank annoying you. Loving the blog xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx love to you both and sian xxxxx
Alex Hey all! Just to let you know that I am doing Misti tomorrow now- wish me luck! A British girl in the hostel was doing it and they had room in her group, so I had no excuse! I've bought some altitude sickness tablets and all the snacks and 5litres of water I need to carry. I need to take my big rucksack to carry my sleeping bag and stuff, so I've had to empty all my clothes into carrier bags. We were getting worried about Harriet tonight as she wasn't back! However, she finally arrived after getting lost in the city and bumping into someone and having a drink with them. She enjoyed Colca, but had to get the mule up the canyon as she struggled a bit. She got on really well with the German couple she walked with, which was good! Oh and her card was working today! Update soon!
Paul Very best of luck, Alex. At 5,822m Misti will be quite an achievement. I'm assuming there'll be snow up there this time of year which will make it even more exciting and impressive. Don't forget the ice axe and crampons! Good to hear that Harriet's card is finally working again.
Auntie vic Hope misti went well!!!! Ha ha ha it love that Harriet got lost but turned it into a sociable session. Good girl. Hope there's still no george listers and the shoes are bearing up. Loves to you both xx
Auntie vic All going on here. Even I'm looking forward to the morning to see if scottishland is still in great britan. I got told off for saying we are all English!!!' Yer get it now!! Ha ha ha blog soon. Ps little Alice is here. She's gorge xxxxx