My last blog of the trip..... Sad times! Make the most of it! Hope things have been good at home and you're all eagerly awaiting my return! Paul sounds like some exciting activities- I've always fancied orienteering.
Sunday:
Well Lima redeemed itself! It was hot and sunny, a decent breakfast in the hostel and a nice walk around Miraflores and the beach! It certainly is a nicer part of the city. The main streets were closed for cyclists and a big exercise class in the street! I wandered and come across the market- I will miss these markets, I wish we shopped like that at home instead of supermarkets! So I bought fruit and a slice of seaweed tart and for lunch had an amazing cerviche from one of the market stalls- huge chunks of fish! Then I wandered the other way and found the beach- it is a stony beach and cold water, but dozens of surfers! I walked along the cliff and watched all the hangliders take off and float around. Then got a bus at 4.30pm, again it was a nice one with TVs, big leather seats and pillows, etc. So my 22 hour journey went well, I read a bit, watched a good film and slept.
Monday:
Arrived in Cusco about 3pm. I got a taxi to my hostel- id chosen Wild Rover, a party hostel for the first night. I was starving so I found a vege place and had a great soya, vegetable and mash dish! I went to the company who I'm doing the inca trail with as I had to confirm and give them my passport, etc. Cusco is huge considering it is so high in the mountains, but as you can imagine it is all geared to tourism! A couple of Brazilian guys in my room invited me to the bar for a drink, but it wasn't great so I was in bed by 10.30.
Tuesday:
I checked out, as I was moving to a hostel that a few people I've met along the way have recommended. I then went and done the free walking tour- always good to learn a bit more about a city and it included a bus up to the viewpoints around the city and you could see one of the old Incan temples, etc. Started shopping, as I'd not bought anything yet knowing I'd have to carry it. So many of the same s***ty shops and stalls, so don't expect nice presents. I checked into my next hostel, which is nice, and went to the shop to get a few supplies so I could cook myself dinner. Chatted to a few people in the evening. During the night the guy on the top bunk beside me was sick in bed and it went on the poor girls bed beneath him! He didn't even apologise or mention it?!
Wednesday:
Chilling: I feel like this is a real holiday now and I can't be bothered to do much, plus I'm resting up for the trek! I went and got a massage- as you walk through the street it is like Thailand with tons of people offering you "massage lady", "good massage". And to be fair I didn't expect much but it was all very professional and very good! Not bad for less than £12.50, including a 25% tip. I went for lunch at a vegan place that's highly popular on the backpacking circuit and it didn't disappoint- 3 courses and drink for £3 and the food was great! A bit more shopping and a chilled evening.
Thursday:
Visited the local market to get fruit and snacks for my trek and enjoy my last experiences of such markets! I maintain that the South American work ethic is amazing; there is everyone from children to old people to disabled people selling everything from toilet paper to jelly cups to offering scales to weigh yourself or shoe cleaning services. And they are there everyday- you have to admire them, it must be so boring to stand there calling "papel de hygienco, uno sole" all day, every day! I got some waterproof trousers for my trek and a couple more bits. Lunch at the vege place again, even better today! I walked a bit more of the city and chilled. I had my meeting at the tour agency for our Inca briefing at 7pm, so I met the group and found out a few more details. Then I come pack to pack up my duffle bag that the porters would carry, only allowed 5kg. And I sat with a Swedish girl and a few Brazilian guys for a while before bed.
Friday:
Met the group at 5.40am, so a nice early start! We got a minibus to one of the villages in the sacred valley where we had breakfast. Then another bus to km82, the starting point. Like I say, I'd hired a porter to carry my sleeping bag, mat and 5kg worth of clothes, etc. So I just had my small bag with 5l of water, snacks and rainproofs. I'd also hired walking sticks on the advice of a few of the group. There were 14 of us, mainly young backpackers- 5 Aussies, 3 Irish guys, 2 Canadians, a French girl, american woman and guy from Transylvania (he really spoke like Count Dracula too!). Plus two guides who were really cool! And 15 porters (or chaskis as they are known locally) who carried all the food, tents, our bags, etc. They literally run the trail so they get to camp and set up before us, it's quite amazing considering how much they carry! The American woman befriended me and so we were tent buddies. The trail is 48km or about 26miles in total and goes through the mountains, including climbing 3 peaks.
The first day was relatively easy, we walked about 7km in total. Stopping for a fabulous lunch that the chaskis had run ahead and prepared! A 3 course meal, with loads of vegetables, amazing considering we were on the side of a mountain. It didnt rain and wasn't too cold. The camp was all set up, although the toilets were dubious (a hole in the ground essentially) and I preferred the bush for most of the trip. Our guides would stop and tell us about the scenery, plants, animals and, of course, Inca history. We saw our first couple of ruins. Another great meal in the evening and we were introduced to all our chaskis and I slept ok in our tent.
Saturday:
Well....... What are the chances?? I woke up with half my face swelled up like a balloon and a horrendous toothache as my top wisdom tooth was having problems coming through! Everyone found it most amusing and I took a couple of ibruprofen and just ignored the pain. We were woken at 5.20am with coca tea and left about 6am. Today was the toughest day as we had to climb and descend dead woman's peak, a summit of 4200m. So we climbed 1200m in about 3 hours. I was pleased as I wasn't the fastest but I certainly wasn't the slowest! And I hung back to support Hillit (my Yankee friend) as she needed it and was so grateful! But there were a few behind us. I am a walking stick convert! They were useful for balance on the rocky path and certainly take the pressure off your knees going down. Overall we were a fast and pretty equal group. The scenery was all breathtaking! Really stunning! We reached the summit and it started raining and hailing, so we didn't hang around and began the descent. We reached the camp and had a late lunch, then a siesta. Then we had happy hour- snacks and drinks, including a fruity hot drink with rum. Then another big meal before bed. Pretty chilly as we were still so high, but as a Brit it really wasn't that cold so I'd bought all warm clothes for nothing. I wasn't affected by the altitude at all, maybe because I've spent a fair bit of this trip up high and so I've acclimatised. Although it is definitely harder to catch your breath as there is less oxygen.
Sunday:
The longest day! My face was still swollen and painful, especially when I ate, but I am proud as I didn't make any fuss compared to several of the others whose legs or shoulders ached, etc. I didn't have any painkillers so I just braved it. We were woke at 5.20am again and first had to climb another slightly smaller peak, where we had a little ceremony for Mother Earth, then descend. Then it was a gradual incline for about 8km before another steep descent. Again we passed and stopped at several inca sites and learnt more history. The scenery was still amazing! It rained a bit, but my waterproofs were good! Arrived at camp about 4.30pm and visited a nearby inca site before happy hour and a lovely dinner.
Monday:
Had to get up at 3.20am. We had a half hour hike in the rain to the gate where we had to queue til 5.30am to go in on the trail that leads to Macchu Pichu. Once in, it was an hour and a half hike to Macchu Pichu. Unfortunately, it was really cloudy so our views of Macchu Pichu as we rounded the mountain was limited! As we arrived to the site it rained and was still cloudy, but our guide gave us a tour around the infamous site and by the time we'd finished the sun was out! It is pretty impressive- huge and the architecture and building work is so clever! It was especially interesting to learn about what each part of the city was and be able to relate it to their culture. I'd paid to climb Huaywanupichu which is a mountain beside Macchu Picchu. Most people could barely walk, but me, an Aussie guy and the Transylvanian guy decided to climb it and made it up in 25 minutes!! It was the toughest part of the whole trek- such steep steps!! But we done it at chaski speed! A great view over the whole of Machu Picchu as the weather was clear and sunny! A rapid descent down and the others had already got a bus to Aguascalientes, the nearest town. So we got a bus there and met them at a hostel where we had lunch before saying our farewells! Over half of them were staying there the night, but the rest of us got the train. Dad, you'd have loved it! A really nice train and amazing views through the mountains and beside the river! It took about 2 hours. Then it was an hour and a half by bus to Cusco and another short bus to the centre. So we arrived about 9pm. I stunk, having not showered for 4 days, and was knackered! So I checked back into my hostel and went to bed.
I don't really know what I expected from the Inca Trail or Machu Picchu, but I really enjoyed it! A great way to finish a great trip! Just because the scenery was stunning, it was a great physical challenge and nice to push myself again, plus the history and ruins are incredibly interesting! Our tour agency were faultless- well organised and such good food always goes down well! The group were cool, all supported each other. Hillit did make me laugh, such your typical American but she was so complimentary to me and grateful for my support. I am pleased that today my legs don't ache, I may not be the quickest or strongest, but endurance is my strength! I could do it all again. I would recommend that Hughie does a bit of training if he's going to do it, as it is a bit challenging! Vic, your shoes done me proud! Very comfy, but I have had to chuck them now. They absolutely stank and all the tread had worn off the bottom from the miles they've walked in these 5 months- snow, desert, jungle, inca trail, cities!
Tuesday:
I treated myself to a much anticipated massage! Very relaxing! Then I met up with Sian who I met in Arequipa nearly 5 months ago and done Colca canyon with. She is living here as she met a Peruvian guy and saw I was in Cusco so we met at 11.30 and went to the vege place for lunch. Then we had a beer and chilled out. She come to my hostel in the evening for drinks and you may remember the French guy who I met in Brazil, Xavier, and had kept in touch with also come and met us for drinks! Met so many amazing people on this trip- they are both great and so a lovely way to spend one of my last nights!! We stayed in the hostel bar til about 2am having a beer and watching the beer pong tournament. Sian couldn't get back to her village so we snuck her in my room where there was luckily a spare bed.
Wednesday:
Walked with Sian to the market for a juice and stuff. Last meal at the vege restaurant. But just chilling really before I get a bus at 4.30pm for the 22 hours to Lima. Once there I will get a taxi straight to the airport where I will have to wait around for about 8 hours before I begin my trip home!!!!! I can't believe it! I have spent my last night in a hostel and my next shower will be at home!!! It doesn't feel real. Oh and my bloody tooth is a lot better now, it seems it was just those 4 days of the Inca trail when it decided to push through and cause problems! I have a surprise for you all, don't think you'll be impressed but I like it! And it's not a Peruvian boyfriend!
I think you might of guessed but I have had the best 5 months! It's been a challenge at times, but I have seen and done so many amazing things and met so many amazing people! I'm so lucky to have had these opportunities. So thanks for following my blog and being part of it! See you soon I guess!