It may not be a charmer like Mui Ne or a historic jewel like Hoi An (so I am told), but there is just something about Nha Trang. It's a study of contrasts really, as the main city is still a bustling Vietnamese entity, buzzing along oblivious to the tourist crowds lining the shore. Hugging the coast for a few blocks is a fully fledged international resort, with stylish restaurants and trendy bars. Although from what we could see it was predominantly a hot spot for Russian holiday makers. Go figure.

This part of the town could be anywhere in the world, but the steady soundtrack of moto drivers soon brings you back to the Vietnamese reality. We had an unexpectedly good time here...

Some of the best dining beyond Hanoi:

My favourite spots on the beach were the oh-so-trendy beachfront terrace of the Sailing Club and Louisiane Brewhouse. The latter looking a bit like a brewery, yet with a sea side pool, selling its small selection of beer by the litre glass (as well as the usual smaller denominations) or in 3 and 5 litre tapped vats. Oh, and the biggest pizzas i have ever seen. We were soooo disappointed not to be able to sample their wears... Our stomachs had not quite returned to normal. We did however, on our last night here manage a couple of full three-course set menus, which included a glass of the local wine that I have developed a taste for, at Veranda: a stylish little restaurant which offers a small menu of fabulous food, blending Vietnamese ingredients with an international outlook. What a great way to break our fast!

Tharp Ba Hot Spring Centre:

Probably one of the most memorable experiences of Nha Trang was getting deep down and dirty. For 500,000d you can sit in an oversized wooden bath tub full of hot thermal mud, before baking yourself dry in the sun. There was something very tribal about the whole affair; especially in the more communal areas where groups lounged around in small stone amphitheatres. This is followed by a walk through of bracing, high-powered water jets, and then a more leisurely soak in the hot mineral baths. They even have heart-shaped stone tubs for couples. Once you are done with the timed sections (i can only assume in high season they have a higher turnover of customers), the centre also has hot and cold mineral swimming pools, complete with thermal waterfalls.

It was defining a novel experience. One more akin to a communal swimming bath, or an old fashioned spa. Don't go imagining you will be sitting in the lap of luxury; although they do offer VIP packages, but I think you'd be missing out on something truly different.

Vinpearl Land:

A short trip over to the island resort of Vinpearl Land, via the world's longest over-the-sea cable car, brings you to Nha Trang's answer to Disneyland (well sort of). This is well worth a visit! It cost far more than Lonely Planet predicted (500,000d per person) but it was a whole days entertainment, and a real one-off experience. I fell completely in love with this tropical garden of a theme park.

As well as fun fair rides, an free-play indoor games centre (David was overcome by the tank driving game), an alpine coster*, a boulevard of boutique shops and restaurants, the park offered the biggest water park we have ever been to. We spent most of the day here. They had so many different types of water slide that there weren't enough staff to man them, so they run on a schedule. David's favourite, and the one that -- in my still slightly concussed state -- made me need to sit with my head between my knees, was a long slide that slingshots you into a 'never ending' vortex...only ending when you finally loose enough speed that you drop through a small hole into the plunge pool below. Completely disorienting. And hilarious... when watching other people's faces as they emerge from the pool; or, rather, 'try' to emerge. My favourite was probably to slide where some Russians asked us to join them in their 6 person raft -- which had to be hoisted to the top of the slide by a crane. And if none of the high adrenaline slides are to your fancy -- I used them to rest my head between slides -- the water park comes complete with Lazy River, wave pool, and fake beach.

*the alpine coster, was similar to the Luge in New Zealand (for those in the know), except instead of being able to steer your little cart down the mountainside, you are secured onto a rail and only given control over your speed -- which just means you can go faster :)

All in all the park was a little surreal, but utterly beautiful.