We stayed in the labyrinthine streets of the Old Quarter -- truly, without David-Nav I would have been completely lost -- where you can supposedly experience Asia at its raw and pulsating best. Although, to be honest, the constant ebb and flow of motorbikes and pedestrians through the centuries-old commercial chaos, was a little much for me. Only in a few rest-bite-moments did I chance to look up, where there is some elegant old architecture in and amongst said chaos; as well as dozens of wicker bird cages and pretty foliage creeping over the electricity cables, which softens the warren like streets.
 
It was such a pity really that we only discovered the broader, more tranquil boulevards west of the Old Quarter, near Hoan Kiem Lake -- where residents practice t'ai chi on the shores, and possibly better, form massage conga lines! -- on our last night.
 
Hidden gems
 
In desperate need of refuge from the storm which is Hanoi, we found: 
 
1. Hanoi Elite hotel: a little bit of luxury down one of the Old Quarter's many alleyways. Probably the most expensive place we've stayed, but it was so worth it.
 
2. Cafe Pho Co: a hidden gem of a coffee shop with amazing views over Hoan Kiem Lake, not to mention the Egg Coffee. It's a little hard to find but worth the effort. If you can navigate yourself to 11 Hang Gai, you are nearly there. Look out for a small yellow sign saying Cafe Pho Co  (or radio cafe) and enter through the silk shop. The narrow alley opens up to an atmospheric courtyard. The waitresses will take your order on the ground floor before you ascend the winding stair cases to your seat on the forth floor balcony. I feel bad for them having to bring every order up...well at least it keeps them fit. Considering you are right in the thick of the busy streets surrounding the lake, it is surprisingly tranquil up here.
 
3. A little kiosk serving the BEST Banh Goi -- deep-fried pockets filled with glass noodles, ground pork and mushrooms -- and the best street food I have had so far. Now I am not 100%25 sure where this little treasure was that i want to rave about. And David has ripped out that relevant page in LP, so i can't check. But i think (and after a bit of research) its 52 Ly Quoc Su Street. Alternatively, in the current LP guide i think it was third down in the list of 'top 10' street food places in Hanoi. Sorry, bit vague I know.

Punch & Judy in a pool (not really a hidden gem, but an experience!)

 We found the ancient art of water puppetry to be a fascinating, yet extremely surreal, art form. The water puppets were both amusing -- although I'm sure if we'd been able to understand the dialog, or better, the Vietnamese sense of humour, it would have added another dimension -- and graceful, and the water greatly enhances the drama by allowing the puppets to appear and disappear as if by magic (the puppeteers stand in the water, behind bamboo screens, controlling the puppets with long wooden poles hidden by the murky water and bright lights of the theater).
 
Originating from rice farmers who worked the flooded fields of the Red River Delta -- some say they saw the potential of the water as a dynamic stage, others say they adapted conventional puppetry during a massive flood -- the puppets are modelled on the villagers themselves, on the animals from their daily lives and on fanciful mythical creatures such as dragons. The performance we saw consisted of a number of vignettes depicting pastoral scenes and legends; and was accompanied by traditional music provided by a band. One memorable scene told of the battle between a fisherman and his prey, which was so electric it appeared as if a live fish was being used. 
 
In summary the performance was fun. Even if neither of us actually fitted into the seats; I've never had so little leg room...how David shoehorned himself in I shall never know.