On our way out of Pai we managed to swing by a Mo Paeng waterfall, a cascade that had several pools ideal for swimming in. It was a real pity the weather wasn't suited to swimming!

Today's ride took us over just one hill. It was just a very big one. Cruising along the highway we noticed the lack of coffee shops and road development. We were travelling on a narrow road twisting our way up a valley full of farms. As we got higher, the road started to sweep back and forth towards the saddle. We stopped at the top to take in the views to either side of the road, before braving the nail-biting decent. The way down was a test of nerve and skill -- free-wheeling down the straight(ish) road before slowing enough to take the 180-degree turn.

We successfully rose to the challenge and in short order arrived in Soppong. We grabbed lunch at the Cave Lodge* before exploring the local cave. The trip through the cave was a mix of walking and ferries: we hopped on and off the little boats as they took us from one patch of land to another.

That night we stayed in the packed Little Eden**, which looked a bit like a collection of small French villas set around a odd-shaped pool. We happily found a little wooden pavilion by the river to enjoy a shandy and recover after a hard day. There was also a rope bridge that I could see no reason at all to go over... Caroline disagreed.


If you're travelling in this area, after spending a week in Pai, you should spend 2/3 nights here. Lovely spot, great food and offers canoe trips up river to caves.

** So busy that when we went for dinner we nearly had no where to sit and then were informed what was left ON the menu!