This was it: the BIG day. Nearly 100km to cover today. With an early start and a plan, we headed out. I knew that if we could get over half way, before we took a break, we would be in the best condition to finish the day. I'd done my research and found us a coffee house -- recommend by others who'd done the loop -- about 55km from where we started. About 2 hours: easy.

After 2 and a half hours we'd not found it. And just when hope was fading, around the 3-hour mark, we passed the sign for the town that housed the coffee shop. After what seemed like the longest 15 minutes ever (or at least for our bums) we finally arrived at the coffee house. It was deserted! We had a good look around but to no avail. Close to tears we mounted back up and continued on our way.

We travel on for about 15 minutes, then I see it: "HOT COFFEE", the sign blazes like a beacon of hope! I could be overstating it, but I'm sure they made the best lattes ever. I had two -- and they came with free bananas! Beat that Starbucks!

We finished that day's ride in Maw Chaem, sound in the knowledge we had an easy 60km ride the next day.

The next day we started early, as most of the interesting driving was done and it was all about getting back to Chiang Mai for rest. Unfortunately the tiredness took it's toll and missing a turn meant we added over 40km to the day -- making it another 100km day! Caroline just about forgave me for this mistake by the time we hit Oz.