The main attraction here is the palace of Amba Vilas; which is the former seat of the Wodeyer maharajas, giving a glimpse into Indian royal life before independence in 1947. The original palace was wooden, and was destroyed by fire in 1897. The modern version was completed in 1912, and with help from a British architect, the interior is something to be believed with its stained glass roofs, mirrors and gold/turquoise iron pillars. It's unfortunate that I couldn't photograph any of this, as they don't allow cameras inside.

I found another excellent attraction here too. Having travelled extensively on India's rail network, it was interesting to see some of its history in the rail museum. There isn't much there, but what is there is a rewarding glimpse into the beginnings of what became the largest rail network on earth, much of which was built by the British over a period of century or so. It seems such a pity that within ten years of handing it over to India, Britain itself saw fit to dismantle much of its own rail network. Actually it's more than a pity, it's nothing less than an outrage, but don't get me started on that!

Indian Railways has more than 40,000 miles of track, nearly 7,000 stations; and with nearly two million employees, it is also one of the world's largest commercial employers.

The town of Mysore itself is a friendly and bustling place with a vibrant market where its famed incense and oils are sold amongst the usual flowers, fruit, vegetables and dyes. Inland towns in the south sit on a plateau, so it is cooler here than on the coast, and it is to Kerala's coast that I will head next.

I was planning to spend a few days in the Kodagu region on the way back to the coast, which is an area of spice plantations with excellent hiking. But my knees seem to be against me at the moment. First it was the right one that saw fit to plant itself between a dog's jaws. And now the left one is giving me some serious pain when I walk on it, for some unknown reason other than twenty-odd years of wear and tear on mountain paths. I'm disappointed to miss this region, as I feel I've been on the normal tourist trail for some time now. But it's not an easy area to get to, and I see no point in cramming my knees into more cramped buses if I won't be able to walk far when I get there.