The smell of Asia has burrowed its way into my nostrils and will not be budged. At times this is far from unpleasant. Sometimes, however, a whiff of something nasty seems to worm its way directly from my nose to my stomach - and then tries to escape through my mouth!

Would i want it any other way? Certainly not! The sanitised smells of the UK, where the baked pasties at Greggs and overpriced coffee at Starbucks are the only aromas to pervade the High Street simply cannot compete with the Asian experience, where every corner hosts a new assault on the senses.

For every fragrantly intense waft of incense there is a blast of filthy, stagnant water. Every refreshing scent of lemongrass is accompanied by the stench of a bin which ought to have been emptied hours ago. Everywhere the intoxicating smells of ginger, chilli and freshly cooked blends of aromatic spices battle through clouds of exhaust fumes and cigarette smoke. Piles of mysterious foreign fruits make the mouth water one day but have become fetid and foul the next.

We're now on the island of Koh Phi Phi, surrounded on all sides by clear water and clearer skies. The town is a warren of narrow streets where every 'ting' of a bicycle bell leads to a deviation in your direction, kittens and cockerels criss-cross your path as you weave between tattooists and masseuses whilst cute kids in counterfeit football kits loiter on corners and fistfuls of fliers are thrust into sweaty fingers.

Today i simmered in the warm Andaman Sea in a bay so shallow that two hundred metres from the beach i was still only knee deep in the water. I felt guilty about being peeved that the heat of the water added scant relief from the intensity of the sun. Further warmth has been supplied by fire dancing Michael Jackson impersonators at the Flame Fiesta - we even spent time with a local pharmacist (who was obviously having a quiet evening) teaching us some of the tricks of the juggler's trade.

The ready smiles and hospitality of everyone we've encountered here have thoroughly endeared the island to us, and the laid back vibe, breathtaking views and cheap buckets of vodka have compelled Rachel to linger longer. My determination to visit Chang Mai, however, mean that our paths are due to diverge once more.

Prior to Phi Phi we have also visited Phuket and the gracious hospitality of the overworked Mike and Kay. Here i ate in an orchid strewn treehouse, sat in on Thai children being taught English, received a bone crunching massage, got out of my comfort zone in the sex fuelled ping-pong 'paradise' of Patong and was assaulted by an iguana. And all along the way we have eaten amazing food from penang curry to papaya salad leaving us with a satisfying tingle on our lips and a satisfying full belly.