The main reason for hiring the car was to get ourselves over the border into Chile to see a bit of its Lake District and the island of Chiloe, which is noted for its traditional pastoral way of life and its unique churches. We set off through the spectacular Argentinean Lake District for the border once more (the 5th time we'd crossed Argentina's border) and after the formalities which included getting the car's papers stamped, we were motoring through the lovely Lake District on the Chilean side of the Andes. Needing some Chilean pesos before we could buy a coffee and pay the ferry to Chiloe, we needed to find a bank in Osorno. This was a particularly dismal sort of place with buildings that could have been lovely had they not been so run down and dilapidated. The main road running the length of Chile more or less stops at Puerto Montt, and from where we joined at Osorno it was an excellent toll motorway. We therefore made good time even stopping off for a coffee at Frutillar on Lake LLanquihue, which we flagged up as a possible stopover on our return journey. The ferry service from the mainland to Chiloe seems to be a constant non-stop to-ing and fro-ing of ferryboats all seemingly full to the gunwales - obviously a very popular and busy crossing. We arrived at the slipway to find a ferry just about to leave so we were able to drive straight on, and immediately we were aboard we were away. After a pleasant thirty minute crossing, with masses of birdlife all heading in the same direction up the channel (evidence of plentiful fish), we landed on Chiloe. By this time it was about six in the evening so we decided to stop at Ancud for the night and got ourselves a room in Hostal Mundo Nuevo, with a wooden boat shaped bed and a lovely view overlooking the bay. Ancud itself is a run-down sort of place with a shabby feel, and the town centre was absolutely dead. Everything seemed to be closed and we had a bit of a job finding somewhere to eat - probably because it was a Sunday.Although it was dull and overcast we spent an enjoyable day driving around the northern part of the island. We had planned to stop over in one of the villages further south, but none of them took our fancy. Travelling on Chiloe's roads, which apart from the main road through the island are unmetalled and in many cases deeply rutted, was very slow and tooth rattling. However we did manage to see some of the small villages that have a traditional way of life, traditional buildings, and many of the island's colourful churches. Castro, the main town, had a bit of appeal but we decided to return north for the night as this would give us an early crossing back to the mainland for a full day in the Chilean Lake District. It was perhaps too much of a rush but we at least experienced a bit of this unique island which, when the weather cleared, showed its very pretty side of a green pastoral landscape set in gently rolling hills. Lots of love

E & M xxx