We were glad to be in Valparaiso and at Luna Sonrisa once more, where Sol welcomed us back - and Felicity was still in residence (really good to see her again too).It was lovely to spend the afternoon just wandering around the narrow streets soaking up the atmosphere again.When we got down the hill to the port we decided to jump on the very new and modern Metro and take it to Vina del Mar.The idea was to have a walk along the coast and take in some sea air.However, alighting at Vina del Mar station we found ourselves right in the centre of town.We really should have got off earlier and it was quite a way back to the seashore.However, we spent a pleasant half hour or so sitting on the wall overlooking the beach enjoying the sea air and a bit of people watching before catching a train back to Valparaiso. On the way up the hill we spotted a likely looking little bistro - 383 - for that night's meal of a very tasty bruschetta for starter, followed by delicious fish with couscous and beef wrapped in ham - and the wine wasn't half bad too. The following morning Sol suggested a new place for a meal or coffee - Hotel La Higueras - which had been recommended by her Belgian neighbour/chef.We found it on our wanderings and stopped for a coffee sitting on their terrace with a wonderful view over the old town and harbour.As weekend festivities broke out with live music and dancing in Plaza Sotomayor far below, E thought he'd check out the price of a room.Well, we'll not be staying there because it was now high season (even though we're still officially in winter!) and the price is US$380 per night!! So we high tailed it downhill to take in the free live entertainment in Plaza Sottomayor.However we did push the boat out and took a standard half hour trip out around the harbour (at a heavily discounted and negotiated price) where we saw a penguin swimming in the harbour, fine examples of the Chilean naval fleet, one of Valparaiso's smelliest rubbish barges, a massive floating dry dock, and an array of huge container ships (where we looked longingly at the thought of our tea chests from Oz and NZ travelling the world on their way back to the UK - oh what sights they'll have seen!).Early evening in the hostel we sat around the sitting area chatting with Felicity when Semina from London arrived tired and weary following a 24 hour bus journey from San Pedro de Atacama.Soon we were joined by Arnd and Sebastian, two young lads from Germany, and we had a hilarious time chatting and joking, and watching send-ups of George W on U-Tube while quaffing a few beers.When the beers were finished Arnd, Sebastian and us tramped downhill to Plaza Pinto to try out Cinzano's, the oldest bar in Valparaiso.It really is full of character and as we sat at the bar we and the diners in the restaurant area were treated to a bunch of old guys playing traditional Chilean music.We had to leave Arnd and Sebastian eating at the bar as we'd booked a table at Caruso's restaurant just up the hill which is renowned for its Chilean fish dishes.Once again the food was really good (in general we found the standard of cuisine in Valparaiso to be higher than that in Santiago) and afterwards headed back to Cinzano's where E enjoyed a nightcap before climbing the hill and into bed.Sunday morning and the town was really lively with lots of markets and in the squares people spouting forth through loudspeakers about their views on this that and the other.After strolling through Plaza Italia and on to Plaza O'Higgins we were ready to get away from the hubbub and found a good place for a coffee.Earwigging on the couple at the next table we thought they sounded Scottish.Kenny and Emma were actually from Berwick although they do live in Edinburgh and they had been doing the same - earwigging on us.Anyway we had a fine chat with them and suggested meeting up with them that evening in Cinzano's to watch the Chile v Brazil match (we were also keen to see if we could catch anything of the Andy Murray/Rafael Nadal US Open semi-final - which oor Andy won!!).We then found our way to the market where we had a splendid lunch of very fresh merluza and mash before taking the bus back to Luna Sonrisa.After a couple of hours relaxing and chatting with Felicity and Semina we once again trudged downhill only to find Cinzano's (and many other bars) closed - just like Scotland thirty years ago. Pity we didn't manage to meet up with Kenny and Emma again because they'd already travelled around South America and it would have been good to get their tips.Monday morning and we were on our way heading north on a seven hour bus journey to La Serena.One thing we'll miss about Luna Sonrisa is the excellent breakfast, the best in Chile - fresh tea and coffee, lots of fresh fruit, a variety of different delicious types of bread, yummy cheese and the best marmalade ever.But it's one more step towards to getting on with real travels in South America.

Lots of love

E & xxxx