After our Mekong Delta trip we got on a bus to the capital, Phnom Penh. We saw some really poor areas on the drive, but when we got to the capital we were surprised at the contrast as it was so modern and developed. We decided to hire motorbike taxis for the day and went to see the Killing Fields. There are loads of holes in the ground where thousands of bodies, killed and buried there during the Pol Pot regime, have been dug up. In the middle is a commemorative tower which contains 900 skulls of victims. You can even see gashes and holes where they were struck or shot. It was absolutely horrendous and really shocking. Afterwards we went to the genocide museum, in case we weren't already depressed enough! Its at the site of S21, a school-turned-prison, where the people buried at the killing fields had been imprisoned, interrogated and tortured. The mugshots of every victim were displayed, and it was really moving having faces to put to the stories. We saw classrooms that had been used as interrogation rooms, and then rooms that had been divided into several tiny cells. The biggest shock was when we saw blood stains on the floor. This was definitely the most horrendous, intense and upsetting experience we've had. That evening we thought we'd go out for a nice dinner as we'd had such a depressing day! However, while eating we noticed a woman with 3 children sitting on the pavement. They looked really poor, but didn't ask for anything. We weren't sure what we could do, as when you give someone money everyone else expects some too. In the end we gave them some food, and couldn't believe how happy it made them and how grateful they were - their faces completely lit up! It was a really small thing for us to do but it had such an effect on them, it was really moving. Walking home, we saw a family asleep in the middle of the pavement. Even though we've been to lots of poor countries, Cambodia has the worst poverty we've seen - its absolutely devastating. The next day we travelled to Siem Reap to see the famous Angkor Wat. It was pretty impressive as its really big and although old and worn, you can imagine how amazing it must've been when first built. We then saw two more temples, which we actually preferred! One had so much character (it had big stone faces all over it!), and the other had trees growing on and over the walls and rooves! It was also the setting for Tomb Raider!!! You could buy a 1, 3 or 7 day ticket for the temples, but we were done in 4 hours!!! Then it was back to Thailand! Although Cambodia was a whistle-stop tour, it had a big impact on us and was amazing to see.