Rotorua

We arrived in Rotorua in the late afternoon only to be greeted by the smell of rotten eggs. No, there wasnt a problem with the sewage main; it was the smell from the sulphourus gases. You see, Rotorua is a hive of volcanic activity, being based directly on a fault line. Who in Gods name thought it would be a good idea to build a town here?? Oh yes- the Kiwis of course! As a result there are many features round this area such as natural hot water pools, steam vents, geysers and bubbling mud pools. The town itself even has lots of vents which pop up all over the place. We even had one in the back garden of the Hostel!

In the afternoon we did a bit of Xmas shopping in town and visited the lake front. It looked a bit dirty but there were black swans and a massive mountain in the background.

Mitai - Maori Culture Eve

In the evening we had arranged to go to a Maori concert and Hangi ( food cooked underground) so we jumped on the bus at about 6ish with some others form the hostel. When we arrived we were taken into a big marque and told about what what the eve was about. Mitai was actually the family name of the family who had invited us to see how they lived. Some one from the audience had to volunteer to be our leader, and as you guessed it was an american guy. To his surpise the american would have to make a speach and get the living daylights scared out of himself by the Maori tribe (that will serve him right). We were then told it was a sacred place to the Maoris (as everything is here). They then brought our food up from the ground (the hangi) and let us take photos, with us all dribbling and hungry. Then we were told tea was after the performance. Oh well.

We were taken on a walk throught the forest down past this sacred spring. It was crystal clear, blue, with a surface like glass. There were a few fish and lots of what looked like bubbling sand on the bottom. In fact i dont think i have ever seen anything so amazing and bizarre. We walked on a bit further untill we came to a small river that was also crystal clear. Here we waited and there was lots of noise from the Maoris. Downstream we could see this flaming torch, and behind it came the maori warriors tattoed head to toe in their Waka ( carved maori canoe). There was lots of chanting and making of threatening faces. They all had their hair in buns, wore fern bracelets and hair pieces. They also had like a hessian neck garlands, and once they had paddled up and down the river a few times, they got out and you could see they were only wearing pouches to cover their bits! They then ran off in a mad person kind of way and we were taken to meet them in thier 'village setting'. I say this because the stage they perform on is the site of an actual Maori village. We were greeted by the females singing outside, wearing what can only be described as a hessian sack with tassles and sporting a rather fetching tattoed beard.

Once seated the rituals began. The american guy got 'attacked' by a warrior with spear whist the others looked on. The american guy looked like a right plum. He then had to accept a peace offering and make a speach on behalf of the '22 Nations' that we were. He then had to do a nose kiss with the chief. The Chief guy then preached in Maori and looked wize. They all sang song to us in Maori which the guide translated for us; they are genrally about ancesters, love and fights-sounds about normal. I was then quite shocked when the Maori chief started talking in English! (call me stupid) They taught us about many aspects of their culture such as beliefs, training methods for hunting, fighting, dancing, singing, and the introduction of western culture. Their tattos are like scout badges in effect. Each part of a tatoo is from challenges. The pattern are derived from animals and family markings.

Emma particulay enjoyed the poi performance. They had long and short pois (which are balls on string). They were origionally used by the men to strengthen thier wrists for yealding heavy weapons, but  the women started to use them and basically swung them around to a rhythumn and dance/hit themselves with them. The performance was ended in spectacular form with the Haka ( war dance). There was lots of tounges out, and chest and thigh slapping. We then had to do our own version. By this point the Maoris were talking fluent english and i thought cleaver chaps. It only just dawned on me that they are quite civallised. I dont mean that in a rude way, its just that i thought that they lived in the forests and didnt know much about westerners. As it happens i am a stupid naive fool. There are no maoris living in the wooden villages anymore, eating thier enemies and living off the land. They live in houses and drive cars. They do however have sacred places, religion and still practice many parts of their culture. I found this a bit sad, but time goes on and things have to change. 

Anyway It was time to eat which was ideal as we were all starving, so we said goodbye to the maoris and went back to the Marque where grub was served. It was delish. We had food cooked undergroung called Hangi such as lamb, chicken, Kumara and potato. These all had a lovely smokey flavour. We also had salads, garlic bread and this creamy potato thing. It was a lovely mix of maori and other foods. We had a local beer and finished off with trifle and chocolate roulade. stuffed.

After dinner we had to get the guide to roll us out the door. We were going on a night walk through the forest to find the glow worms. We had to turn off our tourches and they were visable as tiny blue (almost uv) dots. They looked just like stars in the nights sky. In particular they were gathered around the spring. The sacred fresh water spring as it turns out, was the stunning clear pool i saw earlier. As it was night they put on a underwater light and we saw all the fish swimming around. The moving sand i described earlier was actually the bottom of the spring being disturbed by the fresh spring rising into the pool. There was also a massive eel swimming round which just made it even better. I can see why they call it sacred. The maoris really look after the environment around them. We were told that Lake Rotorua was also this clear once upon a time, but thanks to tourism and modernisation it would be impossible for it to remain unspoilt. Its so sad that people can destroy such beauty but also a relief that there are people to preserve it. After an exausting day and eve it was time to go back to the hostel and get some kip for our next exciting adventure.

Wai-o-tapu (in English sacred waters) Thermal Wonderland

After we'd got our asses into gear, we arranged to take a trip to the thermal wonderland. The afternoon by this time. We only had an hour an a half (not long for us doordelers), so we got going. It was a little walk round the wonderland. At first sight there didn't appear to be a great deal of activity, though the landscpe was quite strange with yellow sulfury rocks and the vegetation was all covered in what appeared to be bright orange dust (it was actually a moss). 

A few more hundred yards down the path steam appeared from holes in the ground. The heat of the day combined with the thermal ground was getting pretty intense. The next 'wonder' was named the devils ink pots; charcoal coloured pools bubbling up. Looked like it would do wanders for your skin ....if cooled of course. There were many more pools of gurgling runny mud. One pool called the Opal pool was a bright limey green colour; it felt like we were on another planet!!! One of the main atrractions was the Geyser but this only 'went off' at 10:15am, which was bit of shame but there were still many amazing wonders. 

Another being the Champagne pool (the one in the pic); it was a light greeny colour in the middle with many other colours around. A bright orange on the edge was very prominent and as the steam rose up it reflected all the colours of the pool, creating a pinky colour; very pretty!!! We walked across the pool (on a boardwalk) and around; we were swamped by eggy smelling sweltering steam. The Princess terraces lead upto this pool. They looked quite eery; you could imagine yourself being on the moon. It is the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemishpere (as many things seem to be here).

 We walked out a little further to the lake; so weird just like any other lake though a bright greeny yellow colour. The different colours of the pools and rocks are from the varying minerals being realised and reacting with the air (i think). It was very impressive and sometimes hard to believe it was all real. It gave you a great sense of natures powers and dominance (all along this area of New Zealand the landscape is ever changing).

As a quick attraction on the way back the shuttle driver took us to look at a mud pool up the road. You couldn't get quite as close as before though it was still very impressive( also prob bit dangerours if you did get too close). The mud was very thick, basically the stuff you put on your face in hope that you will look like a super model after washing it off. It gurgled and spate mud; which  even landed on sams leg. It actually looked quite inviting and if not so darn hot i might well of jumped in and wallowed round like a hippo.              

Polynesian Spa

In the eve we decided to go to the spa as we didnt go to Hells Gate (which is where they have bubbling mud pools and you can actually bathe in the mud. The Spa in voted one of the top 10 in the world. As we had worked hard for a few weeks (how long can we keep creating lame reasons to spend money on ourselves) we decided to use the most expensive pools. They were outdoor pools, heated naturally, just over-looking the lake. It was early eve and light when we went in the pools. We had a selection to choose from that were all shallow and varying fom about 36-42 degrees c. It was really relaxing and was even more so when it got dark. The water had a sulphur smell to it and left solid yellow crystal deposits on th rock at the waterline. We wondered how this could be good for our skin??!! The only down side was the fact it was swarming with Japs who insisted on shouting, going round in large groups and wearing their towels in the water!! I dont know why it is, but just recently -well since ive been away actually- ive started to notice that people from most other countries are either very odd or just plain stupid (im just not sure which but i will keep you updated with any developments). Anyway, regardless of the Japs, all in all it was a nice change for the eve. On leaving there was a gift shop full of lovely scented products, but me and Em settled for a tube of Rotorua Mud Mask to make up for not bathing in mud at Hell Gate. We slept like logs that night.