18:45 - We spent today in the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Marcelo (our guide) and his bus picked us up at 9.30. Marcelo likes a joke and spent the day kidding around (in between explaining birds and flora around us). The walk was pretty short by our normal standards...only 3 hours. On the way Sunitta picked up a new nickname: Mushroom! Toby had discussed her dietary requirements as they were providing lunch and Marcelo being Marcelo picked up on the quirkines...

22:15 - Travelling today. We were to set off at 12.30 for El Calafate airport to fly to Ushuaia...the end of the world in tierra del fuego. I got up relatively late and after packing up went for a walk with Linda, Peter, Karen and Tina towards the visitors centre. As the sky was blu I was hoping to see mount Fitzroy in its full glory. Alas, by the time we got to the opposite end of town, there was a cloud over the tip of it and it would not budge! We then took ou...

22:30 - We had a fairly early start today as we were hiking about 20km. After breakfast and having packed our lunches, we set off by minibus so that we could be dropped off at Hosteria del Pilar were our walk started. Sunitta was not with us as she had booked yet another boat trip on one of the nearby lakes so that she could see more glaciers (and avoid the long walk). In addition she did also do a 1km trek on the ice which she was quite excited about. Our walk w...

22:30 - Peter and Sue were leaving us today as they are off to Antartica for 10 days on a boat, so even though their pickup for the airport was much later, they got up and had breakfast with us so we could say our goodbyes. They are a lovely couple and have been great companions for the past 2 weeks. It's clear they love each other to bits and is so sweet after so many years together. We left for El Chalten on a minibus that seemed to have shrunk in the wash...an...

18:45 - I had a long night...couldn't fall asleep. At 4am I was still reading 'This thing of darkness'...at 5 I must have finally drifted off but the reception chap at 6am was shouting and knocking on people's doors...not really sure why but I would have happily killed him. At 7.30 I got up to get ready and have breakfast before meeting the rest of the group at 8 for our excursion to the Petito Moreno Glacier. After Toby had been dismissive about anyone doing the...