The drive to Monkey Mia is both long and boring and after a few fuel stops (recommended to anyone driving a motor vehicle…Pete!) we made it.It was worth it, the area was naturally very beautiful and after setting up camp we went to the sea for a dip as it was getting pretty hot.The dolphins were playing in the bay paying particular attention to the snorklers.I raced back to the Ponda to get my stuff, back down to see the dolphins in the distance not to come back into the area for the rest of the day…oh well.

Mokey Mia is a small part of the marine nature reserve of Shark Bay, named for obvious reasons.The whole area is only on average about 6m deep (not very challenging for a scuba dive) and there's a clash of marine life between the Tropical north and cooler southern species of marine life giving you a whole assortment of marine life living side by side. However, if you go snorkeling off Monkey Mia beach prepare to be amazed by the severe lack of any sort of marine life other than the dolphins.

For the evening we had booked an Aboriginal guide to take us to his native meeting place for him to show us the ways of his people, play the didgeridoo and tell us stories of his ancestry and heritage.We waited and waited, checked that we were in the correct place and waited somemore!He didn't turn up, I got annoyed and started insinuating that he'd found a $50 note in the bush for that day and was merrily sucking on his goon bag under a gum tree not needing our money to fund his booze for the day.This combined with the heat and the fact we'd be living in a 15ft caravan for the last month for to me and I became a little depressed and irate at the whole situation, nothing a good nights sleep wouldn't cure…well the wind picked up and the van shook noisily and in the end I had to laugh or I'd cry!

We woke early to watch the dolphins feed at the beach and felt in better spirits, if a little tired.I got to feed one of the dolphins a fish and I think this is where I am meant to say…as I knelt down offering the fish to the beautiful creature I looked into its eyes and felt a spiritual connection.I was in awe to be in the company of such a majestic creature.Well it didn't quite happen like that, I fed it a fish and thought that they should be out catching their own bloody fish, they're dolphins that's what they do! Not expect to be fed by the likes of me, a bleary eyed idiot standing knee deep in water with a dead fish in my hand. I felt a little underwhelmed but happy for the experience all the same.

We walked back up the beach to our van, half expecting to see our would be guide from the night before passed out in the sand, still clutching his 'goon bag'and we then decided to go to Ocean World. It's not far from Monkey Mia but Ocean World I found amusing. It is essentially a couple of holes in the ground and some aquariums all filled with water but they keep everything there from Nemo to Jaws. Our guide was very knowledgeable if anything too much so.

With a head full of names of fish we'll soon forget we went for a drive.I found the area spectacularly beautiful, its isolation only adding to the intrigue I felt about the place.It's a shame we couldn't do more exploring, especially of the water but next stop is the Ningaloo Reef so was happy to wait.

We went to the pub in the evening and sitting in the shade, looking through palm trees onto the beach, it dawned on us that this is the first time it actually felt like we were on holiday.Went to bed in good spirits, Gem may say I was drunk but I'm sticking with my story.

Up the next morning (not a hangover in sight) and on our way to Coral Bay.On the exit of Shark Bay while filling up with fuel we met two blokes doing the same trip as us on motorcycles.I felt a little envious but it soon faded when I got into my car and switched the air con on!

Gem's Note: I loved Monkey Mia, yes it was a bit tacky but that's what you want from a holiday sometimes! Monkey Mia is also the place where our 'waterproof' camera didn't quite live up to its reputation and packed up within seconds of going in the sea. Oh well, sums up our luck with all thing electrical...white man's magic Rich calls it.