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Been a long and even bumpy road since kick-off in Accra, spent our last evening eating out together at Buka [Lonely Planet check your bloody facts] and I managed to amuse our tour leader Paul by daring to order Banku and finishing the whole sticky chunk with my guinea fowl soup. Banku is basically goo made out of fermented maize.
The first driving day started with excitement and after hours of driving on different variety of bumpy roads, arrived in the crater lake Bosumtwi. The roadside was basically rainforest and a lot of the road not paved, soon got used to the bounciness of the ride. Mama Africa has once again managed to humble me with her beauty. After ,aking the descent to the lakeside we had a pleasant surprise of getting to choose between dorm beds or camping and setting up a tent didn*t exactly match with the option of going for a swi, in the lake and then sleeping in a set bed.
From osumtwi we made our way to Kumasi, the capital of Ashanti region and also a lively city. By the time we were about to check in at our hotel, no rooms were left and it cqused a few grey hair to our tour leaders who now had to come up with plan B, have to say would trust these guys to sort out anything after a week on the road with them. Ventured into town to see the biggest market [Kejetia] in this corner of Africa and got claustrophobic, on the way there spotted some jars of *delicious s***o* and someone tried to fix me up with his brother. Also checked the Manhyia palace where the Ashanti kings used to live and has now been turned into a museum. They played us a video where the commentary proudly announced how the Ashantis are peace loving people [at this point they were marching with rifles] and how they are always ready to defend themselves.
Got dehydrated pretty well in Kumasi and the next day towards Kintampo falls was agonizing. The sight of the falls helped to take the edge off but probably the 8 litres of water into the system [not to mention squatting on ghanaian roadside] got me back on my feet the next day. After a "relaxing" night of bushcamping next to Fuller falls, wake up to a brave new morning taking a wash at the falls and boy that was refreshing.
Between Fuller falls and Burkina Faso there are not really many stops so we did our shopping in Tamale and headed further north for a bushcamp closer the Burkina border. A spot used by previous groups in the middle of nowhere seemed quite alright and we set our tents up eager for dinner arrangements. Out of nowhere literally hell broke loose and it would just pour down and wind like it was the end of the world. This happened while I was in our tent getting changed and others setting up things for dinner. All of a sudden the tent felt like it would blow off and could hear noise from the truck. The strucks of lightning getting closer and closer made me abandon the tent and it soon turned out that everyone else were busy holding the tarp on the side of the truck, for dear life. I literally ran through a newlyformed river of red muddy water in my PJs. Everyone holding the tarp together after the worst wind had passed we just decided to use the opportunity to grab a round of beer from the back of the truck and tell horror stories from previous trips. Tour leader Paul decided to be a funny man and find dozens of rain titled songs on his iPod. A group member decided to delight us by pulling a Houdini and cook us chicken korma while these things were happening. Bless her.
Most of us spent the night on the truck after their tents had been blown away or flooded, ours was probably only holding because I happened to be in it during the strongest wind, minor pond in the middle but nothing too bad to sleep in. After the spectacular night the truck floor was covered in thick red mud. Filthy and tired bunch headed on towards Burkina, stopping by in Paga and the sacred crocodiles. Border crossing was relatively smooth and in Ouaga everybody mutually agreed on upgrading to a hotel room. Big ass pool, AC bungalow and internet! Being spoiled here..
It*s been amazing to see the gradual transition from rainforest to bushland and christianity to islam, english to french. Borders are truly just lines on a map. Have to say I have found this a well planned and run tour so far and as an entity, it is a great itinerary. I*m also very fond of the Drago concept of travelling, you wouldn*t be able to experience the same without the truck or on your own. Will chill another night in Ouaga and get ready for Mali. C U suckers, it*s cold there isn*t it?
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