Normally I don't write about a place until I've spent a day or two on location, but our day today is an excetion. After a morning Facebooking with friends and family and an afternoon visiting Bangkok's lively commercial district we had a final Thai meal and hit the sack early. We are still getting up at 5:00 am or so despite getting a full night's sleep. I snuck out to get Deb and I some coffees and got a good look at Bangkok on a workday morning. I could have sat on the sidewalk and people watched all day. I was going to head to Starbucks again but was waylaid by an array of new discoveries. Most notably, little mobile coffee vendors who will brew you up a dark and rich expresso for 20 Baht (60 cents) while you sit at the counter and watch the city blur around you. I couldn't resist getting the kids some street roasted corn on the cob and freshly squeezed orange juice, pressed out from 30 or 40 tiny red oranges right before my eyes. It was to die for. Deb and I were too nervous to try the street food when we here ten years ago, but it is so incredibly fresh, tasy and cheap.
We were slow getting packed up and I was just about to go grab us a cab when the building Super knocked on the door. His english was poor but the gist of his mesage was that the City had descended into chaos that morning and taxis were not able to move. There have been ongoing anti and pro-governmnet protests in Bangkok for weeks now, some violent and deadly. We were aware of them but were able to steer clear up until it really hit the fan today. It seems the Prime Minister buckled to fairly good threats by the yellow shirt wearing anti-government protesters to step up their efforts to a new level today. There was a real fear that the city would fall prey to serious violence. Even the de facto resignation of the government and a call for new elections didn't seem to satisfy the yellows who want the current ruling elites OUT.
Now we were a little behind the 8 ball. We studied the street map and charted out a route to the nearest Sky Train Station. We loaded our packs on our backs and headed out into the plus 30 temperature for a twenty minute dash. The kids held up well but we were soaked in sweat by the time we reached the station and figured out the fare system and our route to the airport. All was calm until we stopped at Siam Square to switch trains. We stepped onto the platform to hoards of people clad in yellow chanting anti-government slogans and blowing whistles. It was deafening. We didn't really feel unsafe but you could feel the tension and energy in the square. News reports today indicate that demonstration numbers reached the 1 million mark in downtown Bangkok and I believe them. It was truly a sight to behold. The train to the airport was packed with foriegners who were in the same predicimant as we. We took our time to try and explain the complex situation to the kids without freaking them out. In the end it was exciting to be in the middle of history in this small corner of the world.
Besides leaving my wallet at our apartment in rush to get out, the rest of the trip was routine. We had a lovey flight from Bangkok to Hanoi on Vietnam Airways. It was our first experiment with a low cost local carrier and we were very impressed. Comfortable seats, good food and impeccible service. Vietnam is one of the few contires we needed to arrange visas in advance. Everything went smoothly until we realized we needed to pay our USD$200 entry fee in Dong. Cash. And there were no ATMs before customs! We finally convinced them to escort us through to a bank machine. For some reason I could only withdraw 2 milion Dong (USD$100) at a time which just gave us enough between our two accounts to get the job done. Lesson learned. Always have local currency on hand before you arrive in a new country.
Our driver was waiting for us when we passed customs and we enjoyed a lovely 50 minute drive into Hanoi and our Guest House in the heart of the Old Quarter. Wow! We were expecting a mini Bangkok but it is entirely unique. The architecture is decidedly French. It is deliciously crazy with herds of motor bikes flocking in all directions. Street vendors line every street selling every manner of good and service. It's relatively cool (-18 c at night) and after checking into Madam Moons Hanoi Guesthouse and booking a few tours, we stepped out into it and srtolled the mazelike streets and alleys of the Old Quarter with wide-eyed amazement. Hanoi is far less touristy than Bangkok and you feel like you are stepping into another world as opposed to having one offered up. Hanoi is insane and truly wonderful. We stopped at a little hole in the wall recommended by the Madam Moon staff that serves authentic vietnamese cuisine. It was too good to describe. Mira managed to get the authentic version of #2 and #17 from Yellowknife's Taste of Saigon and she devoured it. Even Shannon loved the pork rib and rice noodle soup. Four meals, two beer and two bottles of water cost us 200,000 Dong - $10. The street food we hear is as good, and a third of the price.
We will stay at Madam Moons in the Old Quarter for three nights before heading to UNESCO World Heritage sight Halong Bay for a junk boat cruise through its towering limestone outcrops and caves. We plan to take it easy these next few days with morning runs and taichi around nearby and stunning Hoan Kiem Lake, a water pupet show, a visit to Ho Chi Min's tomb where he is on display and maybe a famly cooking class. Other than that, lots of walking, street watching and authentic vietnamese coffee and beer.
The people of this country are lovely and as friendly as any we have met, in spite of their less than storybook experiences with western civilizations. Seeng the locals ride bicycles, cruise on their motorbikes with the whole family on one seat and the old ladies carrying goods on their shoulders on a balanced pole wearing their traditional cone hats has put a permanent smile on our faces. This may be the most unique place I've yet to visit. They are Christmas crazy here even though it is largely a buddhist country. There are trees and santas everywhere and it feels genuinely festive. I might even be getting a bit of holiday spirit here in the noisy, buzzing urban jungle.
Ciao for now! Hopefully we are done with the local dramas for a while.