We arrive into Varanasi at 7am very blurry eyed and still a bit shocked from losing jen the night before. We jump into a couple of rickshaws and head to our hotel (hotel surya). Wow welocome serenity after our train ride! A lush pool out the back we all go for a quck dip before venturing out into the blazing sun to see the famous ghats. We cosied up into a couple of cycle rickshaws down the super bumpy road for a half hour ride to the edge of the Ganges. When we arrive, rupan gives us a tour of the main rajhendhra ghat where the death ceremony takes place each evening. The sights and smells amalgamated with the intense heat make theexperienfe quite overwhelming. The steps of the ghat down to the Ganges are filled with people either simply sat contemplating, praying, begging, bathing and one man was even delving under the shallow level for coins thrown in by people in times gone by. An odd point to note but there seemed far more people with disabilities or disfigurements here than we had seen before. So after sitting at the main ghat looking at daily life we started a walk down the winding streets of Varanasi following a local guy towards a restaurant. Although a rather interesting walk battling cows and there wears we ended up in a gorgeous rooftop restaurant looking out over the river. After a few hours chilling and chomping on some momos we venture back to the main ghat to catch our boat ride. Setting off down the river at around 5pm we meander upstream ( tough work for the rowers) and pass by the many ghats which line the rivers edge. Unfortunately the tide was high so we didn't get the full view of all of them. We reached one of the three burning ghats where fires were being lit ready for ceremonial cremations. It was amazing to see and learn about how only men are allowed at the funeral at the rivers edge, the women have to mourn before at home. So after seeing the preperation at this northern ghat we went further down the river back past the main ghat to the most important burning ghat in india. It was surreal to float up next to the ghat and watch. Whilst we were there one family took their fathers body and put itinto the river. His body could not be cremated die to the nature of his death and his status. There was also a body being placed onto one of the burning pyres with a priest beside giving the prayers and ceremony whilst the family lay more wood on top to ensure the body was cremated.

We turned back upstream to get our boat into position to watch the death ceremony in the main ghat. It was so busy we cosied up onto a boat with a large indian family to watch. Priests were performing ceremonies at the waters edge and on the main steps. Whillst there a few of us placed candles into the river as a blessing, lighting up the river as they floated downstream.