Get up and go for breakfast. With a French influence I am noticing quite a mix of Western and Khmer. Pancake with beans and baguette. Stock up as keep getting caught out. We have decided to fly to the Philippines for 10 days as cheap from this neck of the woods. Disorganised backpacking has its moments but gives a greater sense of freedom.
We arrange flights to Philippines and accommodation on the dwindling battery of my ipad. It takes longer than expected as Malapascua off the north of Cebu is almost fully booked. A diving island made popular in 1990 where divers go to see whale sharks, manta ray and the elusive thresher shark. We have also decided to head to Phnom Penh tomorrow as the wild east may not be the best choice during the festivities. If some hostels are closing here then god knows in the jungle. The indigenous people can often warn visitors not to enter with hanging leaves and I wonder if it will be a private time. We are not clear on any of this so decide to skip.
We hire mopeds and whilst waiting check out the market. Bustling with many people coming from all over the area to pick up their shopping. With new year tomorrow, they are probably getting those last minute celebrations treats. I watch a woman chopping heads from a bowl of live catfish whilst another lady prepares what looks like the ends of any animal she could find mixed in a large metal cauldron. The fruit stalls balance the fly ridden meat with a medley of colour and smells. The beautiful pink dragon fruit being centre stage with a rather toothy pigs head smiling from a vendor across the way.
Although I've seen some interesting markets in Indonesia with hung dogs, snakes, rats, bats and other meats, when we head indoors the smell in the baking heat produces a gag reflex. Hurrying through, it brakes into clothes, shoes and general goods. Smell gone, we head to our mopeds.
I haven't been on a moped in 17 years after falling off one in Thailand, but Craig's salesmanship convinces me it will be a great way to see the surrounding area. He had found it an essential way to see Vietnam whilst avoiding the pit traps of organised tours. Departing with $7 and our passports, we inspect our vehicles and I notice the light switch hanging off the handle bar. The owner smiles and kindly tucks it away. Who needs lights anyway. I get on and adjust the cracked mirrors. With helmet on, my short haircut proving its worth in the midday sun, the owner points to where we can fill our empty tanks and I set off wobbling along the road.
There are only 2 things I imagine a Cambodian needs to pass a driving test. One is legs long enough to touch a car accelerator and the second is a rough idea of where the horn is situated. Petrol is cheap and we fill up for a few dollars. Using a map picked up from Uhong Guesthouse, we head north along the road following the Mekong. I am finding that another 2 sets of eyes are required. 1 to watch traffic, either approaching quickly from the rear or cars overtaking precariously, heading towards me. A second set to watch for potholes and dogs running across the road, whilst a 3rd set to enjoy the scenery. I settle for the 2 eyes I have and quickly try and get my moped diploma.
Drivers approaching from the rear always beep their horns. Not noticing this the first time leads me to wobble as my senses awaken further.
Stopping off at a Buddhist temple I say my prayers, rehydrate and we set off to look for the rare Mekong dolphins and Sambok mountain.
Instead of heading back to the main road we head through the temple grounds and exit onto a large dry mud road overlooking paddy fields. Following the direction of the main road, a dust trail is the only sign we were ever there.
Back on the road we eventually find a sign for Sambok mountain. Getting to a long staircase with stone monks on each side, we park and head up. Another 2 staircases have me gasping for water at the top. A shrine to Buddha lit with candles stares across the Mekong. Sitting admiring the view I regain some energy. We get stopped by locals on the way back down amazed at Craig's height. They are all wanting photos so bemused we oblige.
Back on the bikes we head further out to find the Mekong dolphins. Spotting a viewing point we pull in. The woman there wants money to sit and view but seems pointless as we are on mopeds. Some coke and sugared crackers are purchased whilst a chef at a cafe chops up a monitor lizard he has just killed. We turn back as the roads for the last few miles are dusty and rubbled where the tarmac has worn.
Finding a path that leads down closer to the Mekong, allows us to stop at a great viewpoint in a older villiage tucked away. Driving further into the villiage everyone says hello as we pass. Children fascinated by the westerners on mopeds. Like a human Geiger counter more hellos indicating less westerners around.
No sign of dolphins, Craig picks up a bamboo tube stuffed with coconut flavoured sticky rice. nuts are scattered throughout and it is surprisingly refreshing.
Heading back to town we ride our mopeds through the busy market which finishes my moped exam.
Dropping off the bikes we eventually head out for dinner and see our minibus companion Bert. We join him for dinner and chat further whilst the nightly power cut begins. He gives us some tips for Phnom Penh and where to stay. He tells us the hospital is small and quite dirty. No English spoken there and he is on call only during the day. If people get sick here they need to make the 4 hour journey to the capital as the hospital is used just for births and serious operations. He doesn't seem fazed and should be quite quiet for him.
Parting ways, Craig and I head back to pack up and I am hoping laundry service is available in the capital, for a mounting pile of clothes.