Get up to catch our bus to the capital at 7am. Packing quickly we head out onto the slightly cooler streets. This is the best part of the day and I see why the locals are up and going about their tasks. We are taking the "big bus" which is direct, larger and hopefully won't stop every 2 seconds like the "mini bus". After getting on we are handed a bottle of water. Indeed more luxurious. The bus only stops a few times for pickups and once for lunch. In the Cambodian heat the unknown hot food doesn't appeal so we settle for some juice and biscuits. The bus was more or less on time at 7 hours and we step out into blistering city heat. Supposedly 38 degrees. Bert had recommended the Eighty8 backpackers so we ask the tuk tuk driver to take us there. We book into a dorm which is like luxury compared to where we have been staying recently. Clean bed linen, proper flushing toilets and the choice of air con or a fan. I marvel at my own light switch and power socket above my bed. I get the short straw of the top bunk. Can't have everything. I change from the clothes that have clung to me for a few days and head out to explore.
The front desk have no idea what is open over new year but one of the staff chirps up the supermarket is open. No laundry service available today and not been anywhere long enough to do it myself. A pattern is forming here and it feels like we are riding a wave trying to overtake the Kymer celebrations. Nothing happy about New Year for a backpacker in Cambodia. The staff try to buy us tickets to Kampot, but no answer on the phone. We walk to the bus station and purchase 2 tickets on the limited service. The time we arrive at the museum it is about to close and the palace is already closed. Walking around the area you see the poverty and piles of rubbish. As I stand on the neatly cut grass I look up at a picture of the King in his pristine robes. He smiles down at me but I don't return the gesture. We head along the waterfront and with most of the sites either closed or about to close we find a rooftop bar looking out over the Mekong and make plans.
The sun is setting and we wander through the backstreets. The Kings less wealthy subjects are setting in for the night in whatever corner they can find. The lucky few have camp beds. I sadly watch a family of 4, mum, dad, a small boy and girl arrange their cardboard boxes. Dad is sniffing on his nightcap of glue.
Near the hostel we hear music coming from a park. Finally seeing people celebrating new year. We enter the park and there are lots of lights draped round the trees with a stage erected. Several dancers on stage showing the crowd the traditional dance moves whilst a singer belts out the songs. Popcorn, candyfloss, snake and pineapple on sale from vendors. I watch the crowd dance round a tree in time to the stage dancers. Walking up to the temple on the hill we pay our respects to the Buddha smiling over the festivities.
Back at the hostel, I start thinking about Kampot. At least we should be able to hire mopeds and if things are closed we can explore the coastline.
I relish the fast running water of a proper shower and actually feel clean again. Again remembering to appreciate the little things.
Sitting at the bar, this hostel is unlike any I have stayed at, swimming pool, pool table, Nintendo Wii. A well oiled machine where everything is done for you and feels like an Oasis. The blissful beats of Henri Pfr waft over me. I snap out of the enchantment and head out for dinner.
The barman had mentioned 2 main areas to go to - street 51 or down by the river. We head to the river, looking for food and find the first place with Khmer cooking. It seems to be full of men over 60 and the waitress tells us that outside of the holidays it would be populated with girls looking for wealthy westerners. I have some Kymer ribs and they are some of the best I have tasted. Delicate spicing leaves a nice glow in my mouth. An old hippy approaches who looks a little like a bohemian cowboy. Turns out he's from LA and works at the bar after being in the country for a few years. We chat for awhile and he tells us where to stay in Kampot. A very chilled town and it's the way Phnom Penh was 10 years ago. Leaving we find ourselves being drawn to a beautiful voice next to the river. A Cambodian girl and male guitarist sing soulful tunes whilst jets of cool water spray onto us. Bliss!