After checking out at the hostel, we miraculously caught our train to Gwalior, given that the train enquiry man said it could leave from platform 3,4 or 5 (turned out to be 1). We dumped our bags at our new hotel that we stumbled across, and then caught a tuk-tuk to the fort. After some confusion, we pointed to where we wanted to be dropped off, and the man nodded. Of course he had no idea where he was going. Thing is, there is only one sight to see in the town, ...

After breakfast, we caught the bus to Agra. The only free seats were on the back row, so we dragged ourselves and our bags and sat like sardines. An hour later, we arrived at friends paying guest house and were warmly greeted by Yusef. We were shown the rooftop terrace and saw our first view of the Taj. Needing to exchange travellers cheques, he said he could give us a lift to the forex. The lift was on his motorbike! Our first pillion ride, even if it was only 5...

So, we are quarter of the way through our travels, so we thought we'd write a summary of the quirks and annoyances of India and its people. Quirks: 1. There are actually quite a few Indian redheads. 2. You are either husband and wife, or friends. 3. All shops sell one of the following: bangles, brass, beads, snacks, bags, hippy trousers, shawls, shells, wooden items, fruit, or general plastic tat. If you want anything else you're b*****ed. 4. Coca cola an...

An early rise to catch the 10 hour train to Agra. Worst thing is, we were in sleeper class, with no ac! Plus we both had taken immodium the night before! Sleeper class has like triple bunks, with 8 beds per pod, and we were on the top bunks. Oh my gosh. So stuffy. And I felt sick for the whole 10 hours. Just over halfway through, a man came on selling dairy milk, woo, saviour! And finally some mango juice, rather than chai! We made it to Agra, and then had an hou...

We checked in at a swanky hotel, complete with free comb and dental kit. Walking through the streets we caught our first glance of the holy Ganges. So fast flowing! We went to explore the nearby streets, and hopped in a tuk-tuk equivalent of a bus, whilst some gangsta indian music played on the radio- we had to suppress our laughter at the surreal situation. On the way to a restaurant, a smiling man with a huge red circle on his forehead started up a conversation...