Day 20, 24 July 2012, Nungwi Beach to Stone Town - The luxury of staying 2 nights in one place can never be underestimated. Not to mention a spot of wee-fee (as it is known around here - wi-fi everywhere else). Back on the minibus at 10 am for the hour and a half south to Stone Town. It proved to be a huge day. We left the Shangani Hotel (just down the road from Freddie Mercury's house don't you know) and took a sharp right down Gizenga Street and were immediately immersed in the back alleys of Stone Town. Most restaurants are shut until 6.30 pm due to Ramadan and in theory only those sited within hotels are allowed to be serving food prior to the breaking of the fast. In theory. As it turns out, if you look hungry you may spot an "Open" sign on a closed door and find yourself spirited within - Such is how we found ourselves enjoying a superb Goan vegetarian thali meal and a sweet lassi (a yoghurt drink not a compliant border collie). Lurking in an alleyway scoping out another restaurant for dinner is how we came across Jefferji House & Spa - a fabulous boutique hotel/restaurant/spa. Once inside they showed us the spa treatment menu and we fell in love with an image of a massive claw foot tub, lit by tea lights, in an open terrace, with the sun setting in the background. Discussions were had, budgets consulted and an appointment was made to return for bathing and sunset. And the exploring continued safe in the knowledge we would be having our first bath in 3 weeks. Grubby but happy we sought out our second home in Zanzibar - the Zanzibar Coffee House and indulged in strong coffee and even stronger chocolate cake. Thus reinvigorated we went in search of the Old Slave Market site upon which the Anglican Cathedral was built. Maps are pointless in Stone Town - street names are rarely marked and it turns out I have an innate skill for navigation that works via landmarks and shops. So - right at the corner with the men playing chess, left at the alley with polished wooden chairs, right at the ruined building, straight on to the fresh meat market and then ask for directions. So much more fun than an organised walking tour. We made it to the slave market and went below ground to two tiny chambers than have been preserved for posterity - each around the size of a reasonable western bedroom. The larger took 75 women and children, the smaller took 50 men. With very little light or air they were kept here for days prior to being whipped and sold at the market above ground. People who didn't cry out when whipped were considered stronger and fetched a higher price. The site of the market is thankfully gone and the Anglican Cathedral was built on top of it - much of it constructed by freed slaves. Carrara marble and stained glass were imported from Italy and it was finished sometime in the 1870s, with some quirks (marble columns installed upside down by the labourers) and some poignant nods to the past. The most touching is the slab of blood red marble the high altar rests on. Smack in the middle of the red is a circle of white marble which shows where the tree grew that slaves were chained to when they were being whipped. The red marble signifies the blood that flowed. Even if you're pressed for time - this site is definitely worth the visit. From there we pointed ourselves towards the ocean (or at least where I hoped the ocean was - James was very trusting of my Stone Town Nav-chick skills). We made it to the Consul General of Egypt's place (very swish) and accessed the waterfront from there for a cooling paddle. Further rejuvenation was however required and as white folks in Zanzibar our trip would be incomplete without a visit to The Africa House Hotel - formerly the English Club. Having defied dehydration once again I (fairly) unerringly led the way back to our Hotel for a pit-stop before we returned to Jefferji for bathing. The water was hot, the sun, she was setting, the watermelon smoothie was topped off with brandy from Malawi. A sack of ylang-ylang blossoms made the ultimate sacrifice for our bathing pleasure and we were set. About an hour later we had to return to the land of the living and as we headed out to dinner met an incredible couple who were on their mystery-moon - that is, a honeymoon entirely organised by a friend of the bride. Each day brings a new envelope telling them what is going to occur - they even have post it notes in their passports covering up visas for destinations unknown. Can't wait to read about the rest of their adventure. We left Jefferji House with them and ventured into the night down to the waterfront food markets. Meat and seafood freshly grilled, sugarcane juice freshly pressed and roaming vendors with all sorts of souvenirs - all lit by hurricane lanterns and cooking grills made for a splendid finish to a very, very long day. Tomorrow promises to be even longer and we fall asleep to the sounds of Allahu Akbar from the mosque next door as evening prayers come to an end.