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We decided today would be our day trip to Silverton, about 30km west of Broken Hill nestled in the western hills of the Barrier Ranges. The Daydream Mine is out there and is our first stop of the day, to join the 10am above and below ground tour – taking about 1 ½ hours.
Off the main road, we take a well-maintained red dirt road to the mine, opening and closing several farm gates on the way, as the road is used jointly with Seven Mile Station and although we didn't see any stock as such, I am sure they were there somewhere, blended into the rough landscape.
The drive out took us through red dirt, then grey dirt and back again, the Mulga trees sparingly decorating the lower plains and visible also on the skyline of the hills in the distance.
I just love the diversity of the outback landscapes and how they change so quickly back and forth. I can see why people are drawn to the outback as it gives so much. No wonder Broken Hill is full of artists living and working here with galleries almost outnumbering the pubs! The colours are so rich and full of expectation – it may be even more beautiful around the next small bend, or hill. I am being drawn in more and more to this region.
Anyway, I digress!
We parked at the mine site and could see the vertical shafts caged off. This mine was founded and worked before Broken Hill was discovered. Remnants of the 1884 smelter show how big this place was.
We headed for the old original road-house and even though it was a gloriously sunny warm morning, when we opened the door and walked in we were hit with the wonderful smell of burning wood. The wood-fired stove was pumping out a bit of heat and this was maybe where our scones were to be baked, and waiting for us when our tour ended! Yum can't wait!
I was transported back in time, with the old, rough timber tables – worn smooth with use, and the old chairs scattered around this large, friendly room. History hung on its walls and in little nooks and crannies. Think "Little House on the Prairie" kitchen! And an old rough, grey headed man was telling stories of old, to a couple of chaps and anyone else who wanted to listen, recounting the early days of discovery and the eventual start of mining here.
Jeremy, our guide, is the son of the present owners and was so knowledgeable and passionate about this mine. A bit of a character, who led us, hard-hats, miners lights and battery packs all in place, down into the 4 levels of this part of the mine. I have been in different sorts of mines and tunnels around the world but this is my first silver mine although lead and zinc was also extracted.
He tells the story of the guy who found silver here and started the mine. He was scouting around, prospecting when, during the extreme heat of the day, he sought shade under a bush and tree, next to a small depression in the ground. When he woke from his light sleep he picked away at the depression in the ground and shouted “this is not a daydream, it is real, I have found silver” or words to that effect! I know what I would’ve said!
Interesting to note that the Mulga trees, which were so prolific back in the 1880’s, were chopped down and basically cleared from the greater area around the mine and with regeneration so slow there are very few around now. The density of this very slow growing hardwood tree was perfect to use as support timbers of the tunnels. Some of the timbers used have been estimated at 800-1000 years old.
All the original old timbers used to support and shore up the tunnels were still in place although some of the wedges had been replaced over time. As you can imagine, they inspect the mine on a monthly or shorter basis and must be certified for safety, regularly, by the local authority.
Some of the original boxes and barrows used by the barrow-boys, were showcased in parts, together with old helmets and other mining paraphernalia from the very early days. Certainly we got some small sense off what it was like before battery operated lights, when candles were used. Boys from the age of 8 were working down here, by the light of candles, sorting the ore from rock, crouched all day in a small area, pick, pick, picking! They could only work in these conditions for about 3 years before their eyesight became so bad, they could no longer do the job.
70% of the excavated rock was not mineral rich so was used as backfill within the mine itself.
1983 was last time it was mined, and that was by the previous owner. He learnt he had cancer and sold up. His dream was unfortunately over.
Back on the surface and the bright light of day, and the 50,000 personally allocated flies! By the way, the scones were hot from the oven and fantastic with jam and cream. Yumbo!
We drove back to the main road, opening and closing the farm gates, and continued on to Silverton town. Aptly named in 1883, due to the deposits of silver and lead, as already witnessed at Daydream mine, this little town prospered and by the end of 1885 the population was over 3,000.
Due to the prosperity of the town and the newly established mines in Broken Hill, the town council repeatedly requested the NSW government to lay tracks to link SA rail to Broken Hill, via Silverton. They were repeatedly denied, so in 1888 the first privately owned rail company was formed and lay the tracks themselves.
Broken Hill’s mines grew and with large mines opening, forced the decline in Silverton. As construction timber and the like was in such short supply, most of the Silverton buildings were moved the 30 odd kilometres to Broken Hill, on jinkers pulled by bullocks teams, camels and donkeys. An incredible feat, which left Silverton with a pub, gaol and council buildings almost surrendering it to the desert and becoming a ghost town.
Today around 30 people live here running small galleries, the pub and Mad Max II museum. Silverton’s harsh ruggedness and moonscape type of desert landscape has given it a new lease of life. The TV and movie industry shooting movies such as Mad Max II, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, A Town Like Alice ++++ and countless TV commercials. The Silverton Hotel being used in over 100 TV and movie productions.
We spent half an hour or so, in the Mad Max II museum, which was pretty awesome with lifesize figures dressed in full costume and the original (and some perfect replicas) bikes, buggies and cars from the movie.
Worth a look, even if you aren’t a MM fan!
We drove about 5km out of town to the Mundi Mundi lookout. Coming up over the brow of a hill we hit the most captivating view below of the Mundi Mundi plains (major film location). How incredible – you can see the curvature of the earth here with hills 100km off in the distance. WoW!
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Pauline & Mick Wonderful reading yet again. Thanks so much for sharing it all with us x