Road sign: "Hell or Helmet, it's your choice" Indian Law: If you are a female passenger, you do not legally have to wear a helmet. If you are a male passenger, you legally have to wear a helmet (helmets can be anything from an actual Motorcycle helmet, to a cricket helmet, to a horseriding helmet to a building site helmet).

Rules of Indian roads (from a Catalan driver): 1) you must only look forward, never to the sides. 2) if your car or motorbike has mirrors, put them in or off - you don't need them because no-one looks anywhere but straight. 3) you must have a clarevoyant sense because things appear on the road from no-where (people, cows, vehicles going ANY direction, dogs etc) 4) you must have a VERY loud horn and use it inappropriately and annoyingly. 5) Just because it says it's a 1 way street, doesn't mean it actually is. 6) if you drive next to a bus, you will probably acidentally get spat on. 7) whoever is in front gets right-of way. 8) Don't mess with trucks and buses, they are biggest, hence the kings. 9) if you see Nicola and Mendo on their motorbike, STARE at them. 10) making up rules is FINE.

Thanks Mendo - very insightful. Don't worry parents, we are being very careful!!! Well we have been in Delhi now for nearly 2 weeks. Our motorbike was being made from scratch and in this process we have found out that the Indian businessman is someone who is not to be trusted. Firstly we nearly signed with a man who rips off travellers repeatedly - so much so that there is a website about him ripping people off. He was just typing up a contract when I got a bad feeling, so there and then I asked him if we could use his internet to check something, so then I Googled his business and up came this website! Needless to say we made a hasty retreat... We then agreed to do business with another company after a lot of research. It has been good but their organisation skills are useless - I think I could run this business better than them! One of the workers calls the boss "James Bond", but I think the only thing in common is his arrogance. Anyway we are happy with the finished product; our baby boy was born today: Shepa Ganesh Popsicles (Shepa because he's the nice monk who's flat we stayed in, Ganesh because he's the God of good fortune and remover of obstacles, and Popsicles because the colour is that of Manly, who dad played for). We took him for a long ride around Delhi and it was lovely. So after a few minor alterations tomorrow, we should be heading off to Madhya Pradesh on Wed.

As I have previously mentioned, we would never have predicted the reaction from Indians towards Mendo's dread-locks - they love them! People stare at him much more than they do at me, so it's great! Another surprise is my reaction to some people here. As some of you may know, it's pretty rare for me to get angry, and especially to show my anger. I don't like the state of anger, it makes me feel uncomfortable and rude, and makes others feel hurt, which is also a feeling I avoid. Well it seems that here when I show anger, things get done. It's as if I suddenly have their respect and they agree with me, where previously we were arguing... But it's just for show - I don't really feel the anger inside, just show it outwardly. Mendo is as surprised as I am.

Thankyou for all the lovely birthday messages, either through emails or this website, I really appreciate it. When you're away from your loved-ones it is extra special to hear from them. Unfortunately Oct 8th this year was a let-down... Mendo had some Delhi belly so we barely left the hotel room. But next year we'll be in Spain and they certainly know how to celebrate! Thanks to my family for the Taco's with Little Miss Sunshine, the photo's of Tally and the special phone call.

Besos to all,

Love Nic and Mendo.