Wow, we're stunned it's nearly Christmas. It certainly doesn't feel like Christmas - no packed Warriewood Square, no getting REALLY sick of work and willing the days away, no carols over the radio sung by women with sickly sweet voices, no anticipation of relo bashes, no outdoor cinemas, no decorating the house whilst listening to 'the Tin Lids Christmas Carols', no work Christmas party's... but I will say it's interesting being in Goa which seems to be predominantly Catholics/Christians, rather than in a Hindu or Muslim dominant area like the rest of India. Just a second ago a rusty, rattling old truck hooned past with karaoke blaring from loud-speakers: Christmas Carolers, Indian style... A couple of days ago when we were watching The Da Vinci Code at a restaurant on the beach a group of carolers led by Santa gatecrashed the movie - I wonder if it was accidental or planned (a movie about the blood-line of Jesus still existing, church conspiracies etc). While we drive around on Shepa we witness churches lit up like Las Vegas (neon crosses) and Christmas fairy lights leading the way. Ali is like a little fireworks, full of christmas spirit: every now and then "kapow!", she gets us all excited and ready for a fun christmas. Last night we went to the night-markets which go from 6pm to 2am - plenty of time for retail therapy!Needless to say we arrived back at the guest house, satisfied at about 1:30am. We seem to keep ourselves busy with little excursions/missions - we rode into the 'city' to fix the Sony camera which has carked it and when we were in there Ali and I found the Faber Castell shop - cheap and high quality art supplies which we both LOVE! That also meant I've had some fun making Christmas cards and doing some art so I'm a happy chappy. We also both bought gorgeous raw silk and are in the process of having a few things made. We've been enjoying the nature: long quiet walks, WARM ocean swims, wildlife (dogs, cats, cows, birds, crabs, fish, eels, starfish, pigs), hot caressing sun, beautiful breezy evenings, incredible breath-taking sunsets, rejuvinating yoga on the sand, mouth-watering mountainous fruit salads... As I write this under the full moon Ali is outside filling the telephone with words of love and Mendo is in a nearby restaurant awaiting the arrival of Barcelona Vs Real Madrid on the television. We are happy.

We would like to wish everyone a fantabulous Christmas, whatever it means to you - religion, family, friendship, holidays, presents, summer, winter, good food, parties, relaxation etc. We hope it is everything you wish for and that the magic touches your heart like it does to ours. We especially miss our families at this time, you're all very special to us, and we are extremely thankful to you for the love you've given us (the best gift of all).

Love Nic and Mendo.

XOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOX

ARAMBOL, Goa: What a magical time we had in Goa. Lovely to relax and have a break from India for a while. I can understand why it's famous for its beaches - it's the most like a western country that I've seen. When we first arrived at Arambol beach, having been wrapped up for 4 months I felt very strange being in a bikini - like I was showing too much of myself. Then, like life, we get used to the change and the strange becomes normal. We were reminded every now and then that we were still in India when a group of men would walk by holding hands and taking photos of the western women openly or slightly more discreetly with their mobile phone cameras. We visited the supposedly famously spiritual Banyan (Bodhi) tree nearby in the forest and sat in a circle with 4 holy men (Baba's) who fought with each other. It was only later, rolling the experience around in my mind that I realised the baba's wisdom reminded me of Yoda from Star Wars: "Darkness in the heart. Darkness (dramatic pause) you will see around you...", followed by a moist, fleshy cough from years of smoking chillum and a little giggle. We stayed in a gorgeous little guest-house fronting the beach called Sasha's, run by a sweet Christian family. Beside us were Ali and Nina, below us were Keren and Assaf (new friends from Israel), nearby was Geoffrey and some other lovely travellers. Sim and Em stayed nearby and it was great to have all these lovely people around for the renewing of the years. (Sim and Em in the slight chance you read this, I need your email address please!) Christmas Eve was celebrated by a seafood extravaganza overlooking Arambol beach, one of the highlights of which was fireworks which Nina gave the boyz. We then walked along the beach to a bar nearby, had a good boogey and then walked back and joined another party nearby. Got to bed rather late on Christmas day, so it was a pretty quiet affair. Since Al is a little present fiend, on boxing day Mendo and I arranged a treasure hunt around Arambol for her with clues to where her present was - a bit of fun with the locals. On New Years Eve we again had a feast whilst being entertained by traditional music and a man dancing with glass balls (cheers to Sim and Em for the Champers). After this we went to a nearby beach club and partied away until 8am - highlights included Nina's beautiful face painting and mind-blowing fireworks at midnight (some exploding only metres above our heads). Ali, Mendo and I, the survivors of the night then walked 2 hours back to Arambol along the beach - what a great way to start 2008! And so the days rolled by packed with not much but quite a lot (swimming, eating, Shepa rides, good coffee, coconut cream, freshly baked choc-chip cookies, discussions on different languages versions of 'cock-a-doodle-doo', card games etc). On our departure from Goa (the state), the notoriously corrupt police stopped us twice: 1) speeding ticket, doing 60 in a 40 zone = $9AUD fine! 2) checking we have all the papers for the motorbike - registration (tick!), insurance (tick!), international drivers licence (tick!), pollution papers (what the hell???) = Nicola walked into the police station where Mendo was discussing the ficticious pollution papers and said "you know this is unnecessary so stop wasting our time, we will NOT be giving you any bacsheesh (bribe)!" After a knowing smile from the police man and a look at Mendo like 'THIS is your woman? you poor man!', he let us go. hooray!

GOKARNA: After the western, packed touristy feel of Goa, Gokarna almost felt like India again. We stayed in a cute little guest house fronting the beach, neighbours with the next Dali. An interesting Italian had a huge canvas he was painting on the little verandah next to us - he was inspired by Dali and he in-turn inspired Mendo. Hence we stayed for an unplanned 3 nights whilst Mendo drew, I read, we swam and played with 4 adorable puppy's who lived nearby. We ventured into the town which was swarming with Indian pilgrims wearing only black (apparently for 45 days they must pilgrimage, not be with women, no alcohol, no smoking etc). We enjoyed magical sunsets with dolphins breaching in the glistening glow (strange watching the sun set into the ocean when I'm used to it rise from the ocean)...