So, here we are - back in our 'homeland', a place so familiar to us! How we appreciated the welcome, warm weather, strange smells and stares from the locals. It wasn't long before we felt like India's version of Posh and Beck's with the crowds following us and staring at us.

We quickly retreated into our comforts as if we had never left, we were back at the same hotel we duly found on Agoda a couple of weeks ago and on arrival we were faced with 'you're back', it felt like home! Again we had a choice of Star movies, HBO etc much to Nicks delight.

Yes, Delhi had tempted us in returning.

Day one was spent relaxing and watching films, while day 2 was spent at the Red Fort, which is a massive fort which is a shadow of its former self but still good to get an idea of how impressive it would have been back in its heyday, it was also here where India first flew its flag in 1947 to declare its independence from the Brits. We had to fight our way around the fort along with 1,000 screaming school children. We struggled to get out and sought comfort from our trusty friend Ronald McDonald.

We found ourselves permanently at Connaught Place seeking solace in western food, and after Kathmandu, we were grateful that we had loads of fast food and western places to choose from. Much to Helen's delight, they discovered place 'Wenger's' - an upmarket deli/bakery which opened in 1926 by a South African expat. Helen was able to get her fix of Chicken Caesar Salad which she has been craving for the last couple of weeks and is pleased to report that it was a very jolly good version.

On day 3, we spent the morning mentally and physically preparing for a 17 hour train journey from Delhi to Umaria, where we would catch a bus to Bandharvagh National Park in the hope of seeing tigers.

Our verdict of Delhi is that it's India's schizophrenic capital city - aggravating, polluted, hectic, smelly and ordinary. But, we love it! It's like they say - 'you either love or hate it!'