wow what a crazy amazing few days!! got cambodia eventually. our expensive \'safe\' tickets meant in reality we were actually on the same bus as everyone else who had paid 5 time less than us! not great start! after chagning cbuses about 10 times we got to near bordder, here got charged fortune for our visas. finaly reached bord3er which took ages to cross is absolute seraing heat! as son as got to cambodia you could tell we were in a poor country, there was dust everywhere and beggards, mostly children. got another few buses. finally got on a dodgy little bus which fitted loads of sweaty toursist in this was the start of 7 hours of what felt like being in a blender! seriously it was unbelievable. the \'roads\' - and i use the term roads VERY loosely. apparently the roads have been improved too!! vechiles were going by with about 50 people balanced on them the whole scenery was incredible, dust everywhere!! mud huts etc. felt like gone back in time about 100 years! 7 hours later my insides were well and truly blended! arrived in a full on lightning and thunderstorm to a nice little guest house. next day at brekkie some cambodaian guys who worked for guest house offered their services as guides for angkor. decdided it as best optin as other transportation seemed a no no. so hired three guys to take us where we pleased for two days on the bac of their motorcycles sorry mum) so much fun though!! i want one! except my guy kept taking pictures of me and telling everyoine i was his girlfriend-hmmm! serioualy they were harmless tho! so we got them to take us to both war mseums and killing fields...so sad, our guide was a landmine victim hiself and hs story was sooo sad, everywhere you go here there is constant reminders this place only saw end of war in the last decade, landmine victims are everywhere. so yeah were bascially skint now too from giving to various charities, donations etc! had an amazing day whizzing around siem rep and then went to watch sunset over ankor at temples. wow! there were elephants just strolling by like it was the most natural thing in the world! climbed a massive \'hill\' to get to best view and chilolled there till sun set, gorgeous! next day we got up at 5am (yes am!) to get to ankor again for sunrise! we bought a two day pass so had to squeeze all temples in, in end it was enough for us anyway! so hardcored the temples from the bayon to the tomb raider ones. absolutely amazing! like a forgotton world, the detail on each stone was incredible and the each temple completely spread apart hence motobuikes0) were comletely derilict! they had trees growing out of them and it was an amzing sight! such a shame alot of it will be fallen down in next 10 years, not alot being done for maintenence, you can climb all over them etc and go wherever you want (good for us not so good for future visitors ) i went to toilet near ankor wat (main temple0 and looked like they were building a hotel there! unebelievable its such a shame there being allowed to do stuff like that!what a shame! after that we went back to ankor wat main temple (liked te bayon more tho) and on way got bit lost so some loverly little kiddies came to help us out, they told us all about various temples pointing stuff out english was better than mine! so we thouyght agh how cute, lets give them some sweeties....hmmm no they wanted hard cash, and not dollars but thai baht was their prefferred payment!! ah ew live and learn!! there were kids eveywhere beging and selling stuff, bought a whole arm full of bracelets, spoke to some kids for a while , soon as you say your from england they start reeling off loads of facts about capital city etc. there very business savy, the yknow how to make them selves appealling! one girl kept saying \'lovely jubly\' and \'alright govenor\' to me! made mistake of buying off one girl and other all turned on us, why were wer buying from her and not them! ahhhhh! so difficult, luckily the guys were there so we hopped onto our bikes and whized off with kiddies running after us!! after about 8 hours templing it up we were pretty tempoled o ut! on way back saw loads of monkeys though so stopped to feed them! really cool! chilled out and napped then went for some dinner, as we were waiting a rat about the size of a large cat ran right past us! ymmy! wonder whether the chicken kebab i had was actually chicken kebab after all!...... so i absolutely love cambodia, such a gorgeous country despite its obvious massive problems. everyone should definately come here before its taken over by tourists. right now its relatively untouched. tommorow well be heading back to bangkok (about 13 hours, mostley in blender mobile!) and meeting back up with amys friends for thai new year (they have a massive water fight in street for three days!) then to sydney! got a while in bangkok tho so plan to do cookery course, meditation course and lots of shoppping (even tho our dollars are going reall fast this weekl, we were doing so well too, but with getting completely ripped off twice now our budget took a big hit!! lots of love xx