I woke up, in pain, at 4:00 am. Pains had started the day before, in the afternoon and would not go away despite the magical ibuprofen + paracetamol combination. Bad, bad, bad evening and night and this morning, it only threatened to get worse, and it did. You know the feeling when you constantly look at your watch because you can't wait for it to be the time when you can take some more painkillers ? That was my state. I struggled to get on the bike, I struggled on the bike, and despite the scenery being absolutely amazing, I could't benefit from it because i was too busy crying. Tân was worried and didn't understand what was going on with me. At some stage, we stopped in a little shack alongside the road and I slept there for two hours. That's what your body does to escape the pain (physical or emotional) if it can, if pain allows it. Fortunately it did and I woke up again at 11:00, feeling much better. Tân, at that stage, was very very worried about me. I reassured him and we went on.

Because of this delay, we only arrived in Hoi An after a nice stop for lunch (my first meal in 24 hours... I was too much in pain to eat either dinner the night before or breakfast in the morning). He took me straight to a hotel, which I booked because rooms were OK and cheap, and then he took me to... A tailor shop.

Yeah, Hoi An is THE town for tailor made clothing... OH. MY. GOD. Bad bad bad news for my credit card... I went through their catalogue of dresses, skirts, pants, tops, jackets, coats etc... And bought (bear with me...) 1 top, 3 dresses, 2 pants, 2 jumpers and 1 Vivienne Westwood design coat (cashmere wool). Total : 468 USD. Yup. Tailor made. I will have my first fitting today. Yeah yeah yeah, I'll take some pictures.

After that splurge, I headed straight back to the hotel for a good old TV watching evening and good night sleep...

This morning, I was lazy and by the time I left the hotel, it was already noon. Several goals in mind : go to Cham Island diving center (recommended by both Fred from Angel Dive and my friend Felicie) and find a lantern shop. Check. Check. I will be diving tomorrow and the day after... And I splurged myself, again, to a big big purchase of ... 15 lanterns (all sizes and shapes and colours...) which, together with the clothing that is being made for me, will be shipped to France, to my favorite non volunteer, i.e. Daddy ! Thank you daddy !

Honestly, Hoi An is gorgeous !! The urban development is very controlled and despite the very very very heavy touristic centre it is, the town itself is extremely pretty and gives a good feel as to how Vietnam must have been before the era of bikes and buildings... It makes me think a bit of Olinda in Brazil. Of course the architecture is completely different but it's the same vibe. Very laid back, loads of little bars, tourist shops, arts and craft, a bit of local culture, etc... Beautiful spot, yet completely different to what I have just experienced in the highlands. Seeing so many tourists is a big big shock for me and I'm a bit annoyed but hey... I think for one second of those of you, in Paris, who take the RER every morning and suddenly I feel better (mouhahahaha !)

Right now, I am sitting in a restaurant, just had lunch (it's 4:30 pm) with a delicious mango/passion fruit shake and I'm loving it. I have a busy schedule now : some more shopping (t-shirts in Vietnam are really really cool, you'll see). At 5:30 I have my first fitting at the tailor shop. Then i need to go back to the diving center...

Yes. Big decision. Today I am spending another big chunk of money : a dive computer. 395 USD. Whoever feels like participating as my birthday present or christmas present or out of your good heart only, feel free ! I gifted I need that now that i want to take it to the next level. I am not relying anymore on others to tell me what's happening with my no decompression time, with my air surface and with the depths I have been to. The number one security item in diving is this. So this is what I am getting. 

Second reason to go back to the diving center is to discuss my first dive tomorrow (if possible). I have a mask problem under water, meaning I am s*** scared to remove it and put it back on. That is simply not acceptable if I want to upgrade myself in the diving world. I attribute this fear to my childhood, when I almost drowned with a mask and snorkel, at around 4 years old. I was seeing my brother and cousins having fun in the family swimming pool with those and my parents had forbidden me to join them as i couldn't swim, to start with. Nadege is not someone you forbid to do anything. So, as soon as they all had left, four year-old me put on the mask, the snorkel and dove in the swimming pool. Of course, i drowned instantly and only fought my way up to try and breathe. Fortunately my mother had left her bedroom window open and heard the noises I was making. She told me the story several times and said she had never ran that fast in her life... So yeah, I have a problem with the mask thing. And while I am at it, also with a free flowing regulator, and with running out of air, and with swimming without mask while breathing on the regulator. So. My dive tomorrow should be a one to one dive with an instructor who will basically spend an hour making me remove the mask, put the mask on, remove the mask, put it on, at 3 meters, 5 meters, 20 meters, 20 times if need be, then close my air, removing my mask without me knowing, etc... Putting me under stress for an hour, basically. And yeah, I am asking for it. Wish me luck !!

OK, I have to run. My advice to you : if you come to Hoi An, speak nicely to your credit card, because she is going to work. More later folks !

Nadege