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Neil's Round the World Trip!
I got up at 7.30am and raced an Argentinian to the shower, I got there first and closed the door. He then knocks on the door and as I open, he nips in and steals the soap running off in the direction of the other shower (which doesn't have hot water..haha!!). I came out of the shower and realised I didn't have my watch, I looked around but couldn't find it anywhere.
I checked my rucksack into the hostel and then walked down to the dock and bought my boat ticket to Isla Del Sol. I waited patiently onboard as everyone was serenaded by Bolivian pan-pipe guys. It took about an hour and a half to reach the island.
I got off the boat on the southern part of the island and climbed a steep hill from the settlement of Yumani. It was really exhausting and I was panting for breath. I passed friendly locals who greeted me with "Buenos Dias" whilst taking their llamas and donkeys along the path in their colourful Aymara clothes.
I walked for 30mins and found a cairn on a hill. The views were spectacular; huge, snowy mountains in the distance and sparkling Lake Titicaca with desolate barren islands. I drank some water and ate some FRAC biscuits. It's so tranquil here you can forget all your stresses. I continued walking along the coastal path until it disappeared and then just climbed up grain terraces. I was walking through some fields when a Bolivian woman shouted at me. I thought she was probably saying: "Get off my crops gringo!" but in actual fact she was asking me to help her. She wanted me to help put straw bundles on the backs of her livestock. She had a llama called Hermino (fiesty character tried to spit on me twice) and two donkeys. I helped her load the bundles on but at one point the strain of picking up the bundles got the better of her and she burst into tears. I felt really sorry for her and I didn't know what to say to a 80 year old crying Aymara woman. It's incredible the effort and exasperating labour these people experience every day. Although what an office you have: a beautiful island on a serene lake. After a good half an hour the bundles were on the livestock. She thanked me and then wandered off into the shrubland shouting "Cooy Cooy" trying to keep her petulant llama under control!
I walked along the coastal terraces and eventually reached a cliff overlooking a beautiful bay; idyllic. I sat on the cliff edge and munched my FRAC biscuits and re-applied sun cream but by then I think I'd already frazzled my skin. I walked or rather tumbled down the terraces to the beach and reached the small village of Pukhara. I had just climbed the mountain Palla Khasa (4,000m). I walked across a barren football field where I met an old man who informed me I needed to pay 10 b/s to enter this area of the island. I paid him and signed my name next to the others all the while thinking I'd been scammed however the receipt he gave me seemed genuine.
I continued walking up a steep path that lead to another village on a hill. I had to stop a few times to drink more water as the sun and altitude began to take their toll. In the late afternoon I reached the northern tip of the island and the settlement of Cha'llampapa. I saw an old faded sign which read: "Hostel San Francisco" so I knocked and was greeted by a young woman who told me the reasonable price and I checked in. I had to wade through children playing in the garden to get to my dorm which was empty apart from 4 beds. I slumped my stuff on the floor and then KO'd on the bed. I was asleep for a few hours and when I woke up it was nearly sunset so I walked around the village to the bay and watched the sun disappear behind the hills. There didn't appear to be any restaurants just snack shops, so for dinner I had: bananas, a snickers bar and potato crisps. I watched the local children running around with wheels. I was still hungry so I bought some rolls and munched them with water. I then walked back to my hostel and was astonished by the view. The snowcapped mountains in the distance were shrouded in a pink/purple haze whilst the fishing boats rocked gently in the little bay. I had nothing else to do once it became dark and so I just went to bed.
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