After we left Litchfield NP we were worried if we would arrive in Kakadu NP early enough to get a spot there.

We had chosen a route that would take us from the Stuart Highway across to the Arnhem Highway and cut off the corner and a lot of distance, however it was a dirt road, so speed was slow. As it turned out, it was one of the nicest drives we had had in the NT. There was no traffic and it took us through a couple of lovely river crossings were we enjoyed a brief stop to take in the serenity and quiet.

Because travel was slow, it was evident that we wouldn't arrive in Kakadu until late. Before Kakadu there is another National Park, Mary River, which we had wanted to check out. We found a map at a roadside information board that showed a campground at a place called Cuozen's Lookout. It overlooked a wetland and had good reviews, so we headed for it.

When we arrived there was one other camp set up and the site we chose had a wonderful view across a waterway onto grassed flatlands with a mountain range on the horizon, it was perfect and all for the price of $8 for the two of us for the night.

After setting up we went for a walk along the waterway and spotted some birds and briefly a croc! The reviews had said that the mosquitos were bad at night and they were!! Immediately the sun went down we were inundated and forced to sit inside our tent. One other couple came in after we set up, so we had a lovely night inside away from the insects.

In the morning we woke to a fog over the waterway which looked very specie and it was lovely and quiet until the fishing charter boat came along at 7am! We could hardly see them in the fog, but he would power up stream past us and then drift down, then power up again and again. So much for our peace.

So we packed up and headed to Kakadu, stopping at the information board as we entered the park. Next stop was Mamukala Wetlands where they had a great hide, but few birds. So we headed to the visitor centre to pay our entry fee of $40 each and to get information on where to visit and stay. The centre was great, with lots of information and exhibits. The lady we spoke to assured us we would have no problems getting a site anywhere in the park as the park is big and there are many sites in each campground.

Our first campground was Murl to the north and when we arrived early afternoon there were plenty of sites to chose from, all shady and set in the bush and done so you didn't feel like you were camped with a neighbour. Very nice.

After lunch we headed to Cahills Crossing, a ford over the East Alligator River where the crocodiles wait for the fish to come over the ford as the tide comes in. The humans well outnumbered the crocs, but we counted 8 crocs, mainly fresh water, but some salties.

Then we headed to Ubirr, an area with Aboriginal Rock Art, it was brilliant and the view from the rocky peak was amazing.

By the time we arrived back at camp most sites had filled. When the caretaker came around we found him very helpful and he suggested that we park our car across the access track to our site because people will come in after dark and drive down not knowing we were camped in there. Good idea, and after dark a group did come down and set up off the side of our track, not in a site. I later checked with the caretaker and he said he had collected their fees. He was onto it. I did have to see the campers at 10pm and ask them to keep it down though, and they had been drinking, despite Kakadu not allowing alcohol consumption.

In the morning we did a couple of nearby walks, one was through Monsoon Forrest along the East Alligator, here we saw many birds and a dozen crocs sunning on the banks. Julie also got to go into a 'secret woman's business' site. Men not allowed.

We stopped in Jabiru for fuel and lunch, a very rundown town.

Next campground was Sandy Billabong. Here we found a near empty campground, so we picked a spot, dropped off the camper and headed to a couple of nearby walks which went to more rock art. The first was Burrungkuy. There were quite a few people here and the art was amazing. The second site was a lot longer walk and down a dirt road, so we weren't surprised when we arrived to find only one other couple there. This walk was called Nanguluwurr and had the most impressive rock art we have ever seen, it was amazing.

Back at our campground we found quite a few people had arrived after us and for some reason, the largest group had set up near us. Here again I found myself paying them a visit at 10 asking them to keep it down.

The next day we headed along 52Ks of very corrugated rough dirt road to Jim Jim Falls. We couldn't believe the speeds people were traveling along this road, we were doing around 40kph and people were passing us at around 80!

When we arrived at the campground we found it was already half full and had a bit of trouble finding a spot. When we spoke to the caretaker he said the previous night they had been full with 170 people staying. After setting up we took the drive to the falls, where we again had trouble finding a spot to park. We were pleased that as we made the 2K walk to the falls that there were lots heading out. At the falls we found quite a few people, but plenty of room to swim in the warm waters and a sandy beach. There wasn't much water coming over the falls, unfortunately.

The walk in and out is very challenging as it goes along the river and has you clambering over large boulders. As we headed back we found a lady that had fallen and had a suspected broken wrist and we later found out that a man had fallen and broken an ankle, he was airlifted out in the morning. That night in camp the caretaker spoke to one group at 2am, asking them to shut it down!

The next day we went into Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre where we read lots about the Aboriginal history in the area and Julie made a bracelet with the help of an Aboriginal lady. We then headed into Yellow River wetland, but didn't get to see much.

Tonights camp was down another corrugated dirt road at a place called Maguk where there was another waterhole and falls. The campground here was big and only partly filled. The falls were only a 2 K walk from the campground, or you could drive to the Day use area and walk for 1K. We walked from the campground. This walk was a lot easier than Jim Jim, but still involved some rock climbing. The falls here were flowing and the water was the warmest and clearest we had seen. It was beautiful and what we considered the best in the park.

On our return walk we spotted a Dingo in the day use carpark.

This night I didn't have to ask anyone to keep it down and it was lovely.

As we continue south in the morning we stopped at one last lookout, Bukbukluk. Here we would have had a great view, if it wasn't obscured by smoke. The whole time we were in Kakadu they have been burning off.

Well that was it for Kakadu, couldn't say we were too impressed, like Litchfield, its popularity has ruined it for us. Admittedly, it was a long weekend when we were at Jim Jim, but it appears that people just go there to tick it off, not for its beauty or uniqueness.

This night we stopped in Pine Creek.