As with everything in Vietnam that is either impressive, strange or unique, there is a legend to accompany it and Ha Long Bay is no different. Sailors have frequently relayed tales of a mysterious aquatic animal known as the 'tarasque'; reportedly a creature of gigantic proportion lurking in its waters. Some believe that this creature is actually a spy submarine whilst other, perhaps more fanatical listeners, believe that what has been seen is Vietnam's version of the Loch Ness monster!

Anyway, onto the far more factual and tangible bay itself. It must be said that we arrived to a misty and mysterious bay and not a sunny glittering one. Our boat's engine hummed almost silently as we slipped over the murky, emerald waters amongst the towering karst (the limestone islands that make Ha Long Bay so iconic) that loomed all around us and made the water as calm and still as ice.

The islands themselves have a generous dusting of green vegetation adorning them all and black, solemn birds lazily beat the air with their wings as they scan the 1,969 islands here. It is a beautiful and beguiling place that was only heightened by the ethereal mists.

Our first stop of the day, after a sumptuous lunch aboard our Monkey Island Cruise (we are going the Monkey Island tomorrow), was Hang Sung Sot cave, which translates to 'Surprise Cave'. The cave consisted of three chambers, each bigger than the last. Truth be told I was pretty caved-out after Phong Nha a few days ago and it was never going to be as impressive as Paradise Cave - I wasn't trudging up the steep steps to its entrance with particular enthusiasm. A point of interest however, was its ceiling. Great, smooth gouges covered its entire face as though someone had lost their head with a giant ice cream scoop. I was told by our guide, Tommy, that it is erosion from where the cave was once under water.

Short walk and camera clicking done we headed to Titop Island, so named in honour of a Russian pilot who fought with Northern Vietnam against the Americans. The island has an out of place beach - which we ignored because of the grey weather - that has a volley ball court and a small designated bathing area. We sidestepped all of this however and trotted up the couple of hundred steps or so to get to a viewing platform at the summit of the island. The walk was quite hard going and you were constantly encumbered on the narrow path by returning tourists. Once eventually at the top, the views were spectacular and offered a great 360 panoramic photo opportunity.

Back aboard our boat we indulged in a morosely over priced Baileys and had another great meal (though the pumpkin soup wasn't up to much). In our en suite double bedroom, complete with a large balcony and seating area (we have mysteriously been upgraded) we settled down to a night were we could actually have a cwtch and not have to tut in disgust at fellow hostel goers if they talked loudly or zipped up their bags more times than was necessary.