Hanoi, perhaps the most revered capital city in Asia, seems to bubble in front of your eyes.

Arriving in a slightly misty Old Quarter (Hanoi's historic heart) at 7AM was an unrealistic prelude to the bustle of the area. The narrow streets were largely abandoned as the whole city seemed to be sleeping and the silence belonged to us and a handful of others.

Eyelids rested, we awoke to swarms of motorbikes buzzing around the quixotic streets and a city of contrasts whizzed past, uncomfortably close to our faces. Hawkers' calls resonated around the tightly packed walls and fresh fruit and baguettes were available in ample supply.

The Old Quarter lies some distant from the Song Hong (Red River) that Hanoi is sprawled along though it is perched a brisk five minute walk from the Ho Hoan Kiem Lake. The Lake acts as an epicentre for the city with quaint cafes and fountains crammed around it. A captivating legend goes with the lake: in the 15th Century, Heaven sent to Emperor Le Thai To a magical sword which he used to drive the Chinese from Vietnam. A day after the battle he happened upon a giant, golden tortoise swimming on the surface of the water. The creature grabbed the sword and disappeared into the lake's depths. Giving the lake its name, meaning Lake of the Restored Sword because the tortoise returned the sword to its divine owners.

After our walk around the legendary lake we settled into an admin day; booking trips for Sapa and Halong Bay. We decided upon Tripadvisor's number one suggestion of a reputable tourist guide (fearing a repeat of India), Lily's Tourism. They were fantastic, spoke brilliant English and seemed honest, giving descriptions that weren't all positive and unrealistic.

Feeling moderately optimistic that we had booked good trips, we had a meander around the hundreds of tempting stalls around the lake. Before eating a Vietnamese baguette, not my first since coming to Vietnam but easily the best. The roll consisted of coriander, pork 'floss', salami, two other mystery meats and cucumber and tomato. Delicious.