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Scuttling down to the Clock Tower Market after pancakes and honey was a bit manic in the constantly twisting and turning narrow streets of Jodhpur. Due to the shortage of small notes and a banning of large notes in India (thanks a lot Indian government) everyone was struggling to get at their money so we decided to slyly get in line before the banks open. The plan went brilliantly, we were in non existent queues and the sun wasn't beating down on us, just a pity that the banks don't open on a Monday and we'd shot down there for nothing - mugs.
As we aren't ones to be deflated, we trudged back up the hill to see the Mehrangarh Fort, a dizzying 410 feet above the city. Incidentally, the fort is one of the largest forts in India and has seen lots of combat - you can see great gouges in the formidable walls were cannon balls have struck when war raged between Jodhpur and its neighbour Jaipur.
Walking through Jayapol Gate, meaning 'victory' (which was commissioned after Jodhpur's triumph over Jaipur) we stumbled into the fort's museum. I've always loved reading the plaques in these places like an old fart but I just love absorbing it all. The museum was very well stocked, it had numerous and brutal looking weapons, such as katars - short blades designed for close combat that could pierce armour, not to mention about fifty savage looking axes. Rathores, traditional suits of armour made of chain mail and metal plating were beautifully decorated and evidenced the huge love of art in India. Another interesting section of the museum was a procession of palanquins, elaborate chairs or sofas inside veils or boxes, which were designed for ladies of nobility to be carried by some poor men.
Leaving the fort we had a lift on a scooter from another b***** trying to gain commission from a huge textile warehouse called Maharani Art Exporters. The gent that spoke to us had an accent in an incredible likeness to street sellers in Agrabar in Disney's Aladdin and kept saying, 'Look at this, beauuuuutiful'. In between complimenting his wares her made outrageous claims such as, 'Richard Gere and Prince Charles get all their bed sheets from here' and that they supply Hermes in London - I mean, it's just absurd! Where do they get the audacity to come up with this tripe. In truth, in a bland sort of way, it offends me, they have looked at me and assumed that I'm a moron that will believe their nonsense. Anyway, toncit a long story short I bought two bed sheets...well if Richard gets them there they must be good!
Next, we beat our way towards the Clock Tower Market that was now bursting with stalls. Despite the colour and calls from store owners there wasn't much to see here unless you like key rings and fleeces. Just outside the archway to the market however was a world renowned omelette stand. An elderly gent sits on a stool and bangs you out an omelette that tastes of absolute ambrosia! I went for a cheese and masala omelette which he added some sort of spice infused mayonnaise to and, you won't believe this, put it in between two pieces of bread and pan fried it in butter - Jesus Christ it was gorgeous! I love how the small and unexpected things turn out to be some of the most memorable. He was also good enough to have a photo despite being very busy amongst his towers of eggs, what a hero.
Later, we enjoyed a delicious meal on a quirky roof top restaurant that looked at the lit up fort above us. I braved a chicken skewer as I've been hankering for some meat lately, it hope it isn't an unwise choice with our 7 hour drive to Jaipur tomorrow!
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