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Now that we've committed to staying in the one place for the next three months or so, many of you will be delighted to know there are likely to be fewer blogs as a result. This matches the time-honoured tradition of TVNZ, TV3 et al, who - knowing that over the Kiwi summer everyone has much more interesting and healthy things to do than sit in front of a screen - reduce their programming, send all their overpaid presenters on holiday and play repeats.
We are therefore tempted to repeat all the old blogs, but won't. Instead there will just be fewer, at least for a while. So, to bring you up to date... we have returned to Beaucaire, not far from Avignon. It has a large marina and a good boating community, and we got back just over a week ago in a snowstorm. Luckily it was a half-day aberration, and had all but disappeared by 2pm. By the time we moored late afternoon the sun was out and it was quite warm. We even managed to score a sunny quayside location for the boat, which is a convenient height for getting on and off; no clambering up or leaping down onto floating pontoons. It's also very central. Parfait.
So now that the boating season is well and truly over - and we have reached the conclusion that with winter canal and lock closures for maintenance making cruisnig unpredictable and therefore impractical - we will remain here until March.
It's hard to believe that we've only been cruising for just over two months... seems like much longer, but we didn't actually start until the third week of September, which is very late in the season. But it's been an entertaining, mind-expanding time, so we just thought it might be nice to share a few of the observations and conclusions we've reached about life in La Belle France so far. So, here we go, not in any particular order...
Village life: we had read in various books that the charming and quaint rural French village is heading for extinction, and sadly - in our brief experience to date - this appears to be true. Supermarkets and retail parks on the edge of town are now common, which means people drive there, do a week or two's shopping in one go and head home. Meanwhile, back in the old high street, the only local businesses still surviving seem to be the boulangerie and the hairdressers. Unfortunately, as with many (most) retail parks around the world, the edge-of-town offerings are ugly, windswept and dull, even though they might have everything in one place. Sad, but seemingly the way the world is heading.
(On the other hand, if you wish to buy a little shop in the centre of a cute French village, help yourself, there are plenty "a vendre")
Dogs: France breeds the smallest dogs in the world. They are designed to fit in handbags, if not purses. If selective breeding continues they will soon be pocket-sized. Unfortunately they seem to leave the absolute largest deposits on the pavements, some huge enough to qualify for the Guiness Book of Records. To date the French haven't caught on to the use of plastic bags for cleaning up after their pooches, and are happy for the poo in pooch to be left on the ground. Someone needs to take official steps to solve this problem, much as we take very careful steps to avoid it.
MacDonalds: yes, Macca's is here, of course. However, there's nothing fast about the food, service is leisurely, if not downright slow. On the other hand, when you order a Combo your drink choice includes Heineken Beer. Civilised. Plus you get free wifi at every MacDonalds. Very civilised.
Supermarkets: These are pretty much the same as anywhere else in the world - aisles of everything you want and nothing you need. Except in French supermarkets you have to be wary of labelling. Liz found a packet of something the other day that - judging by the label - appeared to be pigeon's feet. Turns out on investigation they were pine nuts. On the other hand, you can occasionally find lark and thrush on offer, so pigeon's feet might well be available. Nom-nom.
Dogs II: The French adore their chiens, so much so that most cafes, bars and restaurants - along with hotels - welcome them, so don't be surprised to find one looking longingly at you beside your table hoping for a morsel. Or a doggie-bag.
Supermarkets II: As with most there is often a separate checkout for "10 items or less". As with all supermarkets this is always closed and you have to queue up behind four people, each of whom is buying approximately €400-worth of groceries. Oh, and they pay by cheque, which of course takes 15 minutes to write. Apparently cheques are not only common here they are taken very seriously, and to default on one is a criminal offence. Having to wait while they are written out is also criminal.
Pedestrian crossings: Be afraid. Be very afraid. A strip of black and white lines across the road is an instruction to drivers to speed up. So, if you wish to cross a road safely, wait until approximately 2am, when the traffic is less. Then run. Except in Paris of course where it's safer to get a taxi to take you across.
Dangerous words: If you need a tampon, don't ask for one... you will be given a rubber stamp instead Equally, if you want to know your food is organic, ask if it is "biologique." Don't risk mangled French and ask if it contains "les preservatifs". Hopefully it won't, since they're condoms. Eew.
- comments
Jeanette :) happy wintering
Barrie Good one Mike. Some similarities with here in Kerala, particularly re pedestrian crossing (they're here but totally ignored). The shopping mall/super store has yet to hit the small towns though. Not a great problem with dog poo. Plenty of dogs but they're so damn starving they don't get to extrude much.