Our last day in the parks started early and we were driving out of our impromptu campsite just after the sun started its long skyward journey. We opted to head east to try and pick up a game circuit by the Grumetti, finally confident of where we were on the map. After an hour of fruitless hunting we ended up in the middle of breakfast in a very posh tented camp. The security guards pointed us in the direction where we categorically knew there were no trails so we gave up and headed west.

With frustration building and all mammals proving elusive, irrespective of whether they ate grass or meat, we created a long dust trail before we were finally rewarded with a track signed off to our right. Sadly within 100m we reached a raging torrent of water which was supposed to be a ford but as the water looked at least 18inches deep and would push us straight off a metre high waterfall we settled for staying on this bank and watching the hippos bathing in the fast currents, as well as spotting our first crocodiles lounging in the far bank.

A few short game loops by the river revealed a handful of herbivores, but we did find an ancient suspension bridge which gave us a great view of the swollen river even if it did sway and bend alarmingly in the process.

We headed for coffee at another swanky lodge and paid a total of £3 for our hot drinks which we enjoyed overlooking the Serengetti plains in the colonial tented grandure which cost other people £700 per person per night...

From the lodge we were shown a back road to the long track to the park gate and arrived with 15 minutes to spare. After Charlie had sorted the last lot of paperwork and Bob had shoed the cheeky vervet monkey from the car we left the parks for the last time and headed for lunch. It was just what we needed and gave us time to discuss our ongoing plans which involved us taking a risk and driving north and west to the shore of Lake Victoria in time to catch the last ferry to the remote island of Ukewewe.

After driving through a torrential rain storm Charlie and I made a small group of local ladies day buy by purchasing fresh veg for our supper, so producing a violently amused reaction. We smiled and waved not quite understanding what was so funny but headed off, leaving the tarmac and starting the 96km journey to the lake's edge in time for an unknown ferry.

The road deteriorated rapidly and as we slowed to walking pace through the numerous roadworks we received unbelieving, astonished glances and people literally stopped and pointed at the kaleidoscope of a car with its 4 Mizungos (white folk). We pushed on, racing the clock and pushing PR3's suspension to the limit but after 3 hours hard drive the road ran out, but not before we passed a daladala who's motto was 'God is my Nitro'.

As nobody spoke English we settled in and slowly established that there would be another ferry but it would be an hour or so until it arrived. Charlie and I bought some drinks and took a walk out to the ramp where the ferry would arrive, passing a group of cattle who appeared to be waiting for the ferry as well. We returned to the car where Hattie had drawn the attention of a group of likely lads and their speakers. We lounged in the car very appreciative of their eclectic taste in background music and wiled away a very happy hour until we saw a tiny ship making its way across the water towards us.

It was truly tiny and when it had unloaded Princess jockeyed for position behind the cows as it was going to be a tight squeeze on the glorified barge. With plenty of 'encouragement' the cows loaded and we followed, them feeling the ferry dip as the lorry behind us took a run up at the ramp. The motortrike was not so lucky and after 5 failed attempts at the ramp an army of locals unceremoniously pushed it aboard and we set off.

The crossing took half an hour and as we beached (on the beach) we drove off straight towards the setting sun. The sleepy islanders gawped and waved as we drove the sandy road to Nansio, the capital,and with the sun finally setting we negotiated the bustling town to find accommodation for the night.

It was reviewed as the best the laid back town had to offer and it was cheap. No frills would just about sum it up but mention must be made of the mosquitos which swarmed in clouds in the bathroom.

After finally working out how the shower worked and freshening up we had a very slow but tasty supper and retired to bed, grateful for the decent mattress after the past 3 nights in the roof tents.