I was suddenly aware of a golden glow sneaking round the Enema's curtains and noting that the ambient temperature was significantly above zero I slipped out of the Enema's warm cocoon and headed up to the cliff tops in the golden glow of first light. The sun blazed just off the horizon, underlighting the dark grey storm clouds which filled the rest of the heavy sky but for 10 minutes the bay was lit up in as the huge waves crashed against the beach. Stunning.

As the sun climbed into the clouds I crawled back onto the airbed with 2 cups of tea and a very snoozy Boblet.

With the threat of rain imminent we packed up soon after draining our mugs, avoiding a morning shower and heading East along the coast.

I had read about a bizarre little museum on our route called the 'Lost Gypsy Gallery' and with some persuasion I convinced Bob to stop and at least decide for ourselves why it was described as 'the real highlight of the Caitlins'. In the carpark was a crank handle operated swimming whale, the skeleton of a sheep (with a rabbit riding pillion) on a motorbike and a huge old bus with shed-like extensions sprouting out of its roof. Bob looked dubious but we entered through the rear doors into the ancient bus which looked like Heath Robinson had spread his craziest thoughts all over the walls, ceiling and into every nook a cranny. There were switches, dials, handles, cranks, bulbs, relays, circuit boards and automatons absolutely filling the place and you were encouraged to fiddle with everything! You could set a model train off on a lap of the ceiling which turned on an array of lights and sounds on its route, there were buttons alerting you of vague warnings of doom and an automaton celebrating a memorial to incoordination amongst hundreds of others. The small enthusiastically hairy man who was leaping around showing people things said that the real show was up in the back yard and for $5 I couldn't resist. Cautiously moving up the garden path we found a pedal powered tv, a vibrating bush of randomness, paua powered glugging waterwheels, a circuit of lights controlled by an arm with a spoon in an eclectic chaos of junk. My personal favourite was an organ from which each key electrified a different bit of noise creating junk from an electric tooth brush to a monkey who sang Boom tastic creating a very odd tune! It was incredible but exhausting and I left feeling like Monty Python had had a party inside my head.

An excellent flat white and hot chocolate stop brought normality back into view and we decided to head off the beaten track to Nugget point. As we bounced along the coastal unmetalled road Bob was preoccupied by the evidence of an army of horses having cantered on the beach, I was focused on the tiny lighthouse perched on the narrow peninsula ahead. On walking out to the precarious structure its job was obvious, extending from the end of the peninsula were a smattering of 'Nuggets', end on, in the crashing surf. Very picturesque but with the threat of rain still looming we scrambled back to the Enema.

After lunch in a particularly dodgy layby Bob piloted us through South Dunedin and on to the Otago peninsula. We checked into a proper campsite (with proper facilities) before heading up to Taiaroa Head to have carrot cake and not see albatrosses. We had time for a quick route march to the impressive 'chasm' on the east side of the peninsula before realising that the view had disappeared and the rain was imminent. We just made it back to the car as the droplets began to fall, and they kept on falling all night meaning we had to cosy up with our books. Sadly we ran the battery flat, again, and having sourced some jump leads and a favour off an over friendly swede we went for a spin to charge the battery before taking over the kitchen to construct a monster chilli. I had 2 small epiphanies. Number 1. Rice cooks much better in the pan than on the floor. 2. When buying a second hand book from a book exchange don't pick the second book in a trilogy...

A brief catch up with the parents and we turned in, falling asleep with the rain pattering on the roof and with a rainy day expected tomorrow I might have to track down the rest of the trilogy in Dunedin.