The sun was still behind the ridge when we woke, swiftly scoffing bowls of porridge washed down with glasses of orange juice whilst attempting to multi-task making sandwiches and dodging the school group who were also up early.

We set off as sunlight started to flood the valley and illuminate mount Cook, arriving at White Horse car park ready to start our route up to the Sealy Tarns. Dubbed the 'stairway to heaven' the 2200 steps made the 900mof ascent easy on the brain but very taxing on the legs. After half an hour we were in full sun and I was regretting the trousers, and multiple top layers, especially the down gilet...

We toiled on, almost vertically upwards, arriving as a sweaty mess at a distinctly unimpressive puddle (Sealey Tarn...) though the impressive views of Mt. Cook and her glaciers took my mind off my disgustingess briefly. The route continued up to the Mueller hut but the 'path' looked hideous and we decided to descend, giving us time to do the Hooker Track as well.

We arrived back in the carpark where we both changed trousers and boots in favour of shorts and trainers. After a medicinal sour Jelly Glow worm I set off at a run, with Bob planning to walk to meet me half way back down. The winding path with its precarious swing bridges was perfect running gradient and I stormed up the 5km to the glacial lake and its arrangement of icebergs, leaving the army of Japenese tourists for dust. The wind was ferocious but the views were spectacular before I turned about and headed back.

I met Bob half way back down and we stomped back to the car for lunch, complimented by Coffee at the Edmund Hilary centre where a far eastern gentleman was seen to pay for a coffee with a $100 bill from a roll which must have totalled at least $2500!

A quick sprint up to see the unimpressive blue (green) lakes before turning back to the viewing point for the Tasman glacier and its lake, dotted with mini Icebergs. The rate of the glaciers retreat was quite startling and we tried to remember all we could from GCSE geography as we descended.

The howling wind blew us back down to the carpark and we collapsed into the car, ready for the drive to Lake Tekapo. I watched Mt Cook diminishing in our rear view mirror and reflected on how close we were to missing out on this natural beauty. A hour later we turned off towards the astronomy station at Tekapo and the Enema started the climb up to Mt. John. After a lot of engine whining and gear dropping we had crawled to the summit of the arid wind whipped mountain, surrounded by half a dozen observatories. It felt like we were on a James Bond set as we struggled against the wind to get to the shelter of the largest telescope to try and arrange an evenings astronomy. Sadly we were thwarted by the damn clouds but it was pretty cool just bring up there.

We descended, in a very low gear, arriving at the campsite for beverages and zucchini pasta. A final walk along the beach amongst the specially shaded street lights confirmed the completeness of the cloud cover and we turned in.