Plans had been laid, timetables checked, all was in order.

In order to get to Monreale - a modest ride in the local bus (every 75 minutes according to the timetable) - we chose our time (9.25 according to the schedule) and hopped on the free circular bus to get to Piazza Independenza in good time to buy tickets and a coffee. Having done this we stood at the bust stop for the good old 389 and bought a bottle of water from the seller on the spot. He asked if we were going to Monreale then said the bus would not be along until 10. When I pointed out that the schedule said 0925 he just shrugged and suggested we have a coffee while we were waiting.

We were not sure whether to believe him, so stood at the stop, planning to wait until about 9.30 or so just in case, then to look for plan B. Well, plan B arrived unsolicited. Holding a much thumbed map as a prop, a young guy came up and asked if we were going to Monreale. He repeated the 10am time, and said that the bus would take a long time to get to Monreale and leave us with a long way to walk and little time to see the wonders of the Duomo before it closed for lunch. Surprise surprise, he then offered to drive us up for only 10 Euro each. I didn't fancy hanging around at the bus stop for half an hour, and the stuff about the lengthy and inconvenient bus didn't sound too appealing, so we accepted.

Well, the drive up the hillside took under thirty minutes - so the bus would not have been much longer as traffic was constrained by morning peak conditions. Then, he dropped us off right where the bus stopped. The only bit of the experience that may have been as advertised was the 10am late departure of the bus. Ah, well. Live and learn.

It must be said that the view down onto Palermo and the Duomo are the only shows in town from Montreal . The church is part of a UNESCO patrimony of humanity precinct as the best examples of the confluence of Byzantine, Arab and Norman art and architecture. The mosaics which cover the ceiling, and the walls and the floors have been remarkably preserved - particularly the image of Christ Pantocrator in the roof above the main altar. An extraordinary legacy to have left.

We had read about a path that would take us up above the town, but try as we might, we couldn't find it. We searched everywhere for the tourist office, looking where it was marked on the map to be faced with the anonymous face of the town hall offices. No sign. About twenty minutes later we asked a couple of local police who directed us right back there, unsigned and unmarked, behind an automatic door that didn't want to open, was the TI. By then we just wanted to check on the buses back, and found that they were running to schedule and from the advertised spot, so ambled back down the hill to await its arrival.

We got back in the mid afternoon, and succumbed to fatigue of our trip with a little siesta. The only remaining activity for the day was to try an interesting looking seafood restaurant around the corner from us. The fish are on display and the smell of the grill at work had been very appealing as we passed by on our various excursions.

Trattoria Padre Aldo had a list of special deals up front, but we decided to go with the waiter's suggestions. I started with cozze e vongole- clams and mussels, and Anne had king prawns straight off the grill. We followed this up with pasta and eggplant sauce - alla Norma . Not named after someone's mum, the style of the Normans.

We accompanied this with mineral water and the house red, a half litre, and Anne had a limoncello - all drinks in plastic glasses. The bill came to exactly one euro less than our first night in Palermo (which had been 56 Euro). I think they saw us coming here too. I'm sure the locals don't pay this, and while we weren't rapt with Gulu, there were glasses, table cloths, and a generally comfortable and well decorated decor - unlike our plain box of a room at Aldo's. So, for the second time today, oh well!