The day was spent mainly in the train. We managed the trip by metro and through the labyrinth of Napoli Centrale, found our train and our carriage and settled in for the long haul. The 10 carriage train which went south to The port of San Giovanni, , onto the ferry ( a first for us! ) in two halves. arriages 1-5 continued to Catania while carriages 6-10 headed off in the other direction to Palermo. Contrary to information there was no wifi or food on the train. I suppose we should have been grateful for toilets - although after a while gratitude for their state would be hard to muster.We had come prepared with bread rolls made from the dough in our pizza class, and some fruit and water. Just as well! This goes down as our worst ever Italian train experience.

As a small reward for fortitude, I t was possible to get a coffee in a plastic cup on the ferry where we could stretch our legs for half an hour. We set off in the semi darkness in our carriage from Messina, and our power wasn't working - so we couldn't charge devices. The train, which had been moving suspiciously slowly then turned back to Messina where some technicians tinkered until we got light, power and heat back, so about thirty minutes late, we took off again. We must have made up some time, as The we arrived in Palermo only fifteen minutes late and we made our way in the dark and rain to our unit- 34 Spadaro, about fifteen minutes walk where we were welcomed by Rafaella, standing in for the owner Pietro. She was lovely and explained everything.

We were quite hungry by then so went looking for food. The streets were pretty much empty and we took a while to find a place where we both had swordfish involtini and two antipasti, most of which was very nice. Unfortunately the waiter was quite negligent, spending most of his time chatting to one of the only other two occupied tables in the restaurant. and then when we offered a credit card to settle the bill, he asked if we could pay cash. Mick asked if he had credit card facilities, and he said yes, but he preferred cash. Mick simply insisted on the card, which was processed with some ill feeling.

We found our way back 'home' and settled in for the night.