We re-entred BC via the Top Of The World Highway. We had been told by lots of people it was a "must do" road. I guess it is call Top Of The World because it follows the top of the mountain range and it promised great views, I say promised because we started off with great views, but very quickly we couldn't see anything for the rain and fog, and to make matters worse, it is a dirt road that was quickly becoming a mud road, it wasn't much fun at all. After around 100k we came down off the mountains and took the free ferry across the Yukon River into Dawson City. Dawson City was at the centre of the gold rush in the Yukon and has quite a history. For us though, we liked the way the streets were still dirt/mud and there were the timber sidewalks by the old shops. We did a guided walk that took us through the old post office, bank and hotel. Had it not been raining, it would have been great. The next morning was fine as we headed south to Carmacks, here we found we were suffering the BMW syndrome we had been warned about, the Top Of The World Hwy had decimated our rear brakes and we were now running metal to metal. From Carmacks we were taking the Robert Campbell Hwy to Watson Lake, this was another dirt road, but it was dry and in great shape until near Watson Lake. On the way to Watson Lake we had a lovely campsite on a lake, and what made it even better was that there were hardly any mozzies. I haven't mentioned the mozzies, Canada and Alaska have been unbelievable, we are so sick of mozzies! We have left all our riding gear on while setting up camp before just so not to get bitten. In Watson Lake we had a huge down pore, a Yukon bike wash! From Watson Lake we headed south on Route 37, we had been told this was a quite road with great scenery, and it was. The highlight for us was going into Stewart on route 37A, possibly one of the best roads we have been on in Canada for scenery. The road follows a deep valley with mountains on each side that have snow and glaciers on them, stunning. In Stewart you have to cross back into Alaska for a couple of Ks which takes you through Hyder before returning into Canada to climb a dirt/mud road to the top of Salmon Glacier where you can stand at the edge of a mountain and look down on this magnificent glacier, it was unbelievable. Returning to Hyder we stopped at Fish Creek where, at the right time of year, you can walk a board walk and watch bears catching salmon in the river. Getting back into Canada at Stewart was a joke, but that is another story. While at Stewart we met a lovely couple from Smithers who asked us to come for dinner, we ended up staying for two nights, it was a lovely break. While at their house we arranged for some brake pads to be delivered to a bike shop in Prince George. Thankfully they were there when we arrived and I was able to fit them in the car park. Fortunately we hadn't had to stop too many times in the last 1200K! The next stop of note was Whistler where we were meeting a friend from Perth. Unfortunately it was raining when we arrived and the next day was the same, so we stayed another day and were lucky enough to have clear blue skies for our assent to the top of the mountains. We did a couple of walks around the top of Blackcom Mountain and watched the antics of skiers on the glacier up there, we also shed a small tear because of the destruction done to the environment. We then caught the Peak to Peak gondola to Whistler Mountain where we did a couple more walks. The views from these mountains were amazing and stunning. From Whistler we continued south and across to Vancouver Island. Here we visited the tourist towns of Tofino and Ucluelet. We didn't like the crowds, but were over whelmed when we were able to walk through coastal rain forest. These forests have 800 year old Red Cedar trees that are up to 80 metres tall and all the ferns, birds and other plant life made you feel so alive! It was just brilliant. We did however learn later that 90% of the old growth forest has been logged on the island, devastating, and we witnessed the destruction when we took a back road through areas that were nothing but logging. We stopped in Victoria city, which was lovely before catching the ferry to Vancouver, a city that left us stunned by its high-rise buildings. As we had sailed into Vancouver we were stunned by how much smoke/smog was hanging over it, it didn't look good and for the next 5 days we were unable to see much of the scenery that we were riding through, it turned out that there are wild fires in Alberta and Washington that is blanketing this part of the country. From Vancouver we headed east again to Waterton National Park, our route was one that had been recommended to us, it took us through mountains, past huge lakes, across ferries and by some amazing scenery. Canada had certainly lived up to our expectations, the scenery was stunning, the wildlife was everywhere, all in all brilliant. The down side is that Canada isn't the "green" country we thought it would be, the decimation caused by logging and mining is very sad, but just a reflection of the demand made upon this planet.