A:

Today we had our last day trip out of Florence. Our only regret is not going to San Gimignano as the transport to get there seems to be very complex. However I must say we were actually spoiled for choice in our total of six weeks in Rome and Florence. In fact we have been to Orvieto, Ostia Antica, Frascati and Viterbo on the train from Rome, and the Catacombs by bus from Rome, to Fiesole and Siena on the bus from Florence, and after today, to Lucca, Pisa and Pistoia on the train from Florence. This is in addition to seeing the usual sites, doing a language course for two weeks, and enjoying both cooking and eating lots of good food! There has also been a lot of wine and coffee in the mix!

Today was also very cold and we were glad of our winter coats, scarves and beanies. We had to have the heater on in the flat early this morning as the temperature has definitely dropped. It was minus one degree in the early morning in Florence. Pistoia is about 40 minutes away by train. While we were buying the Pistoia tickets we also booked our seats for Verona. This latter will requre a change of trains at Campo Marte - our complicated one stop journey on Saturday for the soccer.

In Pistoia we went to 10.30 Mass in the Duomo which turned out to be a sung high Mass partly in Latin. They were singing the Office when we arrived about ten minutes before Mass was due to start.

M:

I couldn't help but reflect as we sat in this venerable old bulding, listening to a sung office and taking part in a liturgy which was conducted partly in Latin, that except for the clothes of the congregation this could have been taking place 800 years ago. There was a real sense of the continuity of the life of the Church, and tradition seemed less a heavy hand than a source of connectedness.

A:

Downstairs there is a lovely presepe- nativity scene -and as you wait, the lights come on for a beautiful night scene. Of all things, it was made almost entriely of pasta and the surrounding scenery was mounted in branches like birds' nests. What a lovely interpretation. There are some pictures in the album.

We had a look through the nearby markets which had more socks for sale than I have ever seen which is funny because I have just about worn through mine and will need thicker ones for Verona where it will be colder. So I bought socks and Mick, who has been taping his well- worn shoes up for a few weeks now, finally bought shoes from a salesman who was a bit like Signor Smoothy of leather coat fame. Anyway all these purchases seem to be okay so far. We thawed out in a cafe nearby and then continued to look at the sights of this lovely medieval town before we had a tasty lunch in a trattoria called dall'Abbondanza - well named and recommended by Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor. The place filled up quickly which is interesting because it was not exactly on the main drag- you had to go looking for it. (I am going to miss the excellent food and coffee when we leave Italy in about two and a half weeks time.) Several people who came in while we were there were turned away as the place was full, and it didn't disappoint- the food was excellent. (M: Today's local specialties were gnocchetti with boar meat ( a pattern, I know, but it is the season) and a soup with spelt.)

The trip back was relatively uneventful. The beggar we have seen on the train before re-appeared with her little notes. She drops them on the seat near you and then returns for money after she has been through the carriage. We were just wondering if she pays her way on the train or if she avoids the guard when she came through the carriage again with the guard following- we think he was throwing her off the train.

As has become the custom, the train journey is a chance to read the paper. There was an article in La Repubblica about Italian support for the Senegalese community after the recent murder of two of their community in the racist attack a few days ago. There had been a rally of 2000 people on Saturday in the Piazza Santa Maria Novella - quite close to our place- but as we had been out of town, we had been unaware of it and only saw the posters and remnants of it on our return. It is so good to see such a clear statement of unity and solidarity here in Florence when we hear of so much racism in our own world, and in the countries so close to Italy.

Monday was our final full day in Florence. Depsite having walked past it innumerable times to either catch the train or deposit rubbish in the special containers in the square nearby, we hadn't yet seen the inside of the Basicila di Santa Maria Novella.

This church is full of art from the Renaissance and earlier, and was built by the Dominicans in the thirteenth century. There is a painted Crucifix by Giotto in the nave, completed around 1290.

M:

It is a very well "signed" church, which allowed us to identify all the various works of art, including many of those who have become the "usual suspects" - various works by Pisano, della Robbia, even a piece that Michelangelo was supposed to have helped with, and magnificent frescoes by Lippi.

A:

We had not had a careful look inside the Duomo either, apart from attending Mass there last weekend so this was our next port of call. Its proper title is Santa Maria del Fiore- St Mary of the Flower. (M: It is less well signed, and for me the building itself is the star, not so much the art works within. I forewent the pleasure of the climb of the cupola - it will leave one climb for next time!)

A good long walk walk along the Arno and up 161 steps to Piazza Michelangiolo (M: Not sure why the speling is different here) brought us to a fabulous view of Florence and today was so clear and crisp that this was perfect. At the furthest end you can look over and see lots of trees and we think this may have been the camp ground we stayed in when we were here in 1985. We could not be sure if it was still a camp ground or if it is closed for the winter as it would be only hardy travellers who would sleep in a tent at this time of year. We recalled our last time in Florence when my Mum and Dad forwarded us money for dinner to celebrate Mick's birthday. We took up this generous gift in Florence. We crawled out of our tent in as much finery as we could muster, had a great meal at a posh restaurant, and crawled back into the tent for the night! (M: A check of Google seems to indicate that it is still used for camping.) There is a second copy of David in this square- the other one we have seen is in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.

As I type this in the afternoon, it is still quite cold and we have our heater on.

Our landlord Enrica dropped by to check that all was well as we head off tomorrow. She, like all of our landlords/landladies so far, has been most attentive and we thanked her for this. The place is very small but very clean, we have everything we need and it is in a brilliant location.