M:

We had been in something of a quandary about Boxing Day - Santo Stefano here. It is a public holiday, but just precisely what that meant was not clear in terms of openings and closings. We took a gamble on going to Padova, just on an hour in the train. As it turned out most shops and all museums were closed, but there were cafes and restaurants and churches open, and many of the sights were the city itself. Beth even got a soy cappuccino!

The major objective was the basilica of St Anthony, to whom Elias' family have a special devotion. On the way there we were reminded how cold it was when we came across a couple of shallow puddles frozen solid. I was able to have a slide on them like I did as a kid in Scotland.

A: We passed the Scrovegni chapel on the way and as the Tourist Information staff had told us all churches were open today we expected that this would be the case. But no, sadly, so we missed seeing the Giotto frescoes ( 1303-05) which are important because Giotto was a local who was significant in the art world because he used a "blaze of glowing colour" as Lonely Planet suggests. This was the end of the Dark Ages and the beginning of the Renaissance. There was a sign outside the chapel with part of these frescoes so we could get an idea. (M: Or, like us, you can follow the link above) Scrovegni commissioned this chapel for his father who was denied a Christian burial because he was a money lender.

M:

On the way we found a place that advertised soy cappuccino - so Beth fet compelled to have one. So far, this is the only place we found which sold this product!

We arrived at the Gothic Basilica of San Antonio as Mass was on (once again!) and so remained outside and collected some gifts from the array of stalls nearby as we waited. (There are always people who will go into a church as Mass in on but we don't think this is appropriate.) This church is actually on Vatican land so we were technically in a different country! Outside the church is a life size bronze eqestrian statue by Donatello (1453) which was the first such statue made in 1000 years. It is called the Gattamelata- Honeyed Cat- and commemorates a fifteenth century Venetian mercenary leader. It is considered the first great Italian Renaissance bronze. (M:Other than selling souvenirs of St Anthony - outside Vatican territory! - the other principal activity in the square seems to be pigeon feeding, with the birds so tame they land on your hands.)

We only had fifteen minutes to look inside as there was to be another Mass at 12.15 so we made sure we got inside quickly. And what a place! I can see why there were so many people there and there is a special devotion to this particular saint. His tomb is inside the church and we lined up to file reverently past. In another area we found another queue for various sacred objects including what is said to be Saint Anthony's tongue- perfectly preserved!

M:

While there were many "tourists" in the queues, it was clear that there were many others with a deep devotion to Anthony and his relics. I may burn in hell for this, but I just don't get the devotion to stray body parts and pieces of the true cross (yes- there is another one here!). I can understand that they may have had some appeal in a less scientific age, but many have clearly been shown to be hundreds of years younger than their purported origins. And even if their provenance can be shown, what is the fascination of a tongue, a jaw and a voice box? Anthony's legacy was surely his preaching and his good deeds, which live on in the work of his brother Franciscans.

Our walk took us to the Prato della Valle, one of Europe's largest squares, and one being well used by locals for their holiday exercise. We took the time also to explore the markets at the Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza della Frutta - although on this particular occasion there was more by way of clothing and tourist goods than fruit and veg!

A:

After continuing our walk around the town which has wide streets and footpaths and so is very easy to get around in, we had a delicious lunch in La Lanterna which is a pizzeria and returned by train to Verona where we had boiled eggs, the delicious buffalo mozzarella, salad and bread for a simple but tasty tea.