Dear Diary,

Arrived in Dalat via Saigon (which was a odd experience. Within 5 minutes of leaving hotel & despite being with a group of 5 others, I was asked whether I wanted to buy cannabis, cocaine & women!! I must just have that kind of face...).

Hotel I wantd to stay at (as recommended in Lonely Planet) was actually a building site when I arrived!!! A bit of a shock, so wondered about & found a half decent place not too far away.

Went for some food & met Duc, an extremely friendly 'Easy Rider'. I told him my plans & we agree on a 4 day trip around the central highlands & finish at Mui Ne. The trip cost $50 per day (not including hotels or food) & I was a bit cautious but had heard so many good things about these trips that I thought, sod it, lets do it!!

And oh my god, I would have paid twice as much for the experience I had!

Day 1 - went around Dalat, saw a magnificent temple (pictures in album) & then headed into the countryside. First main stop was to see some minority hill tribes. They don't talk much Vietnamese let alone english & their language is spoken only, it is not written at all. Met 1 particular family who seemed generally pleased to see a westerner. Some of you reading this will be pleased to know that for this tribe it is the female who is the boss!! If they marry then the man has to take the females family name & move in with her & her family. The man's family has to pay for the wedding by providing cattle etc. I think I was propositioned & Mum it'll only have cost you 2 water buffalo, a dozen pigs & some chickens!!

Stopped off at a local farm that famrs coffee & silk worms and went to the local silf factory to see how silk is produced from the worms coccoon - very interseting indeed.

In the afternoon it starting raining & didn't stop until the morning. So by the time we reached our first stop at 6.30pm with the last 30 minutes in the pitch black, driving rain & fog so thick you couldn't see 10 yards in front of you, I was not feeling to great. Duc decided to tell me at dinner that he was a bit worried & scared with the last 30 minutes bike ride - not very comforting at all!! Tried some rice wine (aka happy water) that I was told wasn't that strong as it was only between 50 & 60% proof. Let's just say I had a very good sleep that night.

Say 7 other westerners all day. All of them with an Easy Rider

Day 2 - Driving around the mountains & saw some amazing views (I just hope that the pictures can give some kind of indication!). Had a wonder around another hill side tribe & got to sit in one of the houses. The woman's who's house it was was only 26, had 3 children (one & half, two & half and four). Her parents had died a few years ago & her husband died just after last baby was born. As live is tough in the tribes, she still has to go out & do some kind of work in order to get money, so spends alot of her day by the river fishing! They ask for a bit of money (20,000 dong - that's about 70), but I felt awful just giving that, so gave 50,000 in the end (wanted to give more but was advised against it!).

On way to next hotel we stop in a local high street (for want of a better word) & Duc sent me into the local indoor market to have a look round. It was absolutely brilliant!! Majority of the people there had not seen many westerners, if any, so I caused a bit of a stir. They just stare at you, but in a facinated way, talk to each other in Vietnamese & start laughing! Had about 3 kids just follow me about, touching my arms etc. When I came out there was a gropp of people by the motorbike again just staring talking & laughing!!

Stopped of to see some excellent waterfalls & while climbing down to the bottom there was a couple that had just got married & were having photos taken. You have to check out the photo of them standing on a rock - wouldn't happen back home!!

Didn't rain as much but was overcast for much of the day. Got convinced to wear my waterproofs that while looking stupid did their job.

Saw 4 westerners all day.

Day 3 - First stop was to a local shop in order to buy some sweets, washing powder & sampoo for the villages we were going to see. Heartbreaking to see especially the children living as they do, but again everyone was just so pleased to see you & when I got the sweets out the kids just loved it. All very polite, just hold their hands out & wait. And they love their photos taken. You get a camara out & they just gather together & smile the biggest smile you have ever seen.

Went through some contry roads & everyone I saw just waved & shouted 'hello'!

Stayed in a small town that doesn't have any foreigners in it at all!! We went for dinner at a street stall & the food was probably some of the best I've had on my travels. Again I seemed to be a faciniation for 3 particular children who spent most of the time I was eating playing music on my knee & back with chopsticks!!

Saw 2 westerners all day

Day 4 - Weather wise this was the best day. The sun was out all day & it was so hot, but really nice with the breeze being on the bike. We travelled down the mountains & saw the most beautiful & stunning scenery

Overall I've done the social side of things over the past few weeks & this was the time for a more cultural experience of Vietnam.

I've been trying to think how I can describe the whole experience in words & I know that I cannot even come close to doing it justice.

The history (& not just the american part) is just facinating & compelling.

The screnery took on different disguishes depending on the weather. When overcast & rainy, the jungles & hills were menacing, dangerous yet still had an allure about them. But when the sun came out, they transformed themselves into a majestic beauty that just has you opened mouth in awe.

The people are the friendliest people you are likely to meet. They welsome you into their towns, villages & houses opened armed & unlike the main s\cities, they are not doing it in order to con you out of a few dong. They are so please & excited to see westerners & cannot do enough for you.

If anyone ever come to Vietnam, then I cannot stress highly enough that you have to do an Easy Rider trip (4 or 5 days would be best). I guarantee it will be the one of the best, if not the best, thing you will ever do!!

Prior to reaching Mui NE, didn't see anothwer westerner all day!!