Predictably, I woke up (after several false starts) feeling pretty terrible on the morning of 19th April 2011, as I'd just spent the night in the thin sleeping bag in a car, and I had an imaginary imp drilling both my ears for company. I drove to the lookout for the peninsula I'd be climbing soon, and I checked out that view as well as Phallic Rock. Obviously a rock that needs no real introduction, Phallic Rock is a rock shaped like a penis. And who says I don't bring you culture? According to local word, women who touch the rock will become pregnant, though I'm not sure if they meant that metaphorically. I didn't touch it and I'm not a woman, so I think I'm safe on both counts.

The main event for today was a tour around Makanalua Peninsula, the old leper colony tended by Father Damien, now officially a saint. It was a long hike down 26 switchbacks and descending 1600 feet. My ears were hurting and the pressure change wasn't helping. We got picked up by a yellow "cheese bus", the classic American school bus, and taken around the grounds. It was pretty amazing to see such an isolated community in such a beautiful location. If I wasn't in so much pain I would have loved it. Codeine pills didn't help and nearly sent me to sleep. Still, it was very cool to see the place where Father Damien gave his life to help the leprosy sufferers and it makes your own life seem pretty tame.

I hiked out in about an hour while those on the donkeys were bearing down on me (after I'd taken a couple of breaks). Got to my hire car and dropped it off in time to catch the ferry to Maui with 15 mins to spare. I was dreading the crossing as I'd heard it was awful, but seas were calm and I half slept until I arrived and Kim was good enough to drive me to the doctors to sort out my ears. I'm now on antibiotics. I was so tired I dozed on the sofa all evening as I couldn't face lying down with the pressure on my ears...

The next day I did almost nothing except feel sorry for myself and do laundry. I packed for our Big Island trip tomorrow, hoping I'd be ok to fly. Normally I'd be miserable enough to be missing home at this point, so my eternal thanks goes to Kim and Pat for making me feel part of the family!