As we wil be here a few days first thing this morning Ali gets some washing done and hung out before we wander to the metro. We validate our tickets and board the first train which runs partly in the open before plunging underground. At Westbanhoff we change from U6 to U3 and continue our ride to Stephenplatz, where we emerge opposite St Stephen's cathedral. After a coffee on a terrace we go through a pedestrian area looking for the Spanish Riding School, where we hope to be able to visit a practice session, as we have read that the shows are sold out months in advance. Even this short walk shows us some of Vienna's famous elegance. Passing the statues outside the school leads through an archway into an area under a dome, the underside of which is regally decorated; moulded, carved, gilded and painted.

Ali and Grete go to the information desk and come out a few minutes later, beaming; they have managed to get tickets for a show on Saturday morning.

Major objective completed, we wander through the Hapsburg courtyard and past the palace with its huge, gold, double headed eagle glowing in the sunshine then move along past museum quarter. To say we are overawed is an understatement. Any one of these buildings would impress with their perfect proportions, elegant styling, brilliant gilding and bronzework, but here is a city with stunning architecture everywhere we look. As for the fabulous carvings, any one of these statues is worthy of a place in any gallery in the world but the larger palaces are scattered with them like baubles on a Christmas tree. It's all too much to describe here.

All the while we take care watching our for the horse-drawn carriages or pushing through tour parties blocking the paths while the guides recite their scripts in a variety of languages.

The monument to Empress Maria Teresa is very impressive; bronze horsemen with incredible detailing surround a polished red granite plinth topped with another bronze of herself on the throne. At its base a man is handing out leaflets for a Mozart concert. He is appropriately dressed in tricorn hat, pale gold silk frock coat, knee breeches, white calf socks and - er - chunky training shoes.

We pass the Rathause [town hall] which bears a slight resemblance to our houses of parliament, and find a suitable spot for an Austrian lunch at Landtmann's restaurant; asparagus salad starter followed by weiner schnitzel with buttered potatoes.

The ringstrasse is served by Nos 1&2 trams, so we use our cards for a whizz around, alighting at the Parliament building, a huge, Paladian palace lined with marble statues of Roman leaders, Titus, Tacitus and many others. Opposite Parliament is a beautiful park with a riot of fragrant roses and perfect lawns and gurgling fountains.

As we return through the shopping centre we eye the myriad of jewellery and watch shops; Cartier, Rolex and Breitling among them. Some have doormen/greeters/guards outside, and after a few quick glances at the prices Nick W is declared the winner with a Cartier watch at €206,000!

There is one last mission to accomplish before our return; ice-cream, which we find in the corner of Graben Strasse. Nearing the station St Stephen's looks very different. The sun has moved around illuminating the coloured, tiled roof into bright green, white and grey patterns.

The metro is much busier but we board, transfer and disembark with no problems and return to the site having had a successful and enjoyable first day in this impressive capital.