Forty two years ago Shane and I left Istanbul with a bag of puzzle rings a box of meerschaum pipes and a couple of quite 'interesting' embroidered goat fur coats. Today we spent a lot of time in the Grand Bazar and found one place selling puzzle rings (a lot of people puzzled when I asked them about the rings), one stall in the antiques area selling the pipes and no one selling those nasty flea bitten coats we loved for years. Guess things have changed ...